Popular Woodworking 2004-10 № 143, страница 18
CIRCLE NO. 128 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD.
Finest Quality Reproduction
RASS & IRON HARDWARE
Since 1933, Ball and Ball has been manufacturing the highest quality reproduction furniture hardware, builders hardware, lighting fixtures, and fireplace accessories available.
Call for our 108-page catalog available for $7.00.
(catalog cost refunded on first order)
463 W. Lincoln Highway (Rt. 30) Exton, PA 19341 610-363-7330 • Fax: 610-363-7639 1-800-257-3711 www.ballandball-us.com
CIRCLE NO. 107 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD.
FURNITURE COMPONENTS STOCK ITEMS • NO MINIMUM CUSTOM COMPONENTS
FREE COLOR CATALOG
Bed Posts Billiard Legs Bun Feet Cabinet Onlays Corbels Finials Island Legs Table Bases Table and Chair Kits Tapered Legs Turned Legs Queen Anne Legs
P.O. Box 728, Dept. PW 20 Morristown, TN 37815-0728 Phone 423-587-2942 • Fax 423-586-2188 www.adamswoodproducts.com
by American Craftsmen
CIRCLE NO. 101 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD.
Q & A
continued from page 14
have one leg that's 3/4" x 2" Baltic birch with the other leg as an acrylic plastic (available at home-supply stores). Join the two legs of your square with a bridle joint in the plywood and secure it with wood screws, or small nuts and machine screws. If you go to the extra trouble to use the nuts and machine screws, you can make the holes in the acrylic a164 " larger than they need to be to allow you to true the square if you drop it.
— Christopher Schwarz, executive editor
Why Isn't My Router Bit Centered in My Aftermarket Guide Bushing?
I have a Skil 1823 plunge router and I bought a Vermont American universal guide bushing kit for it, model #23458. The kit contains a base plate that you secure to the router, and the guide bushings attach to the kit's base plate. The base plate seems to bolt on OK, but when I locate the position of the router bit inside the guide bushing, it is off-center. The cutter doesn't rub on the bushing but I would think that the bit should be centered. I saw some reference to redrilling the base plate holes to help this situation.
Is this a common problem? Should I go ahead and drill out the holes?
Mike Shafer New Vienna, Ohio
It's more a problem, I believe, with the router itself. Some premium routers allow you to adjust the tool's base plate so it is centered perfectly over the collet. However this is not a common feature on less expensive tools, such as your router.
I'd definitely go ahead and elongate the base plate holes just a bit. Here's how: First unscrew the base plate from the router. Chuck a straight bit into the tool's collet and install a guide bushing that has the same interior diameter as the bit. Place the bushing (mounted on the base plate) over the bit and rotate the base plate until you can see where the screws go. They wont match up exactly, but you'll see where you need to ream them out. Drill out the holes a little bit at a time until you can secure the base plate to the router.
— David Thiel, senior editor
Where Can I Find Good Information on Restoring Wooden Hand Planes?
Following the advice of Don McConnell in his articles concerning the use of wooden hand planes in issues #138 and #139, I recently purchased a used 22" wooden jointer plane.
I would like to restore this plane into good working condition. I intend to use it extensively, with no desire to purchase its modern counterpart, the powered jointer.
My biggest concern is the fact that the body has several cracks, some on both ends, and a few small ones on the bottom, which I believe is the result of a previous owner forcing the cutter into its resting place. The body is sound, and the sole is flat, and I think this tool can be made useful again.
Please provide suggestions or recommendations for returning this tool back into something useful once again.
Thomas Baker Monroeville, Pennsylvania
There's a lot to know about restoring a wooden plane. Cracks in the stock of a wooden plane can be no big deal or fatal. So I'd really consider getting some books on the topic — which will give you a better education.
The first thing to know is what you're buying at the flea market or antique store. For that important step, I recommend "The Wooden Plane" by John M. Whelan (Astragal Press). This sizable book classifies many wooden planes and explains their history and use. Another good book for identifying wooden planes is "A Guide to the Makers of American Wooden Planes" by Emil Pollak and Martyl Pollak (Astragal Press).
But if you can purchase only one book, it should be "Making Traditional Wooden Planes," also by Whelan (Astragal Press). In addition to offering instructions on making wooden planes, this text shows you how to tune them, which will definitely help you restore vintage ones. PW — Christopher Schwarz, executive editor
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Popular Woodworking October 2004