Popular Woodworking 2005-06 № 148, страница 18
i, JL. FURNITURE COMPONENTS STOCK ITEMS • NO MINIMUM CUSTOM COMPONENTS FREE COLOR CATALOG Featuring: Bed Posts Billiard Legs Bun Feet Cabinet Onlays Corbels Finials Island Legs Table Bases Table and Chair Kits Tapered Legs Turned Legs Queen Anne Legs Split Onlays P.O. Box 728, Dept. PW19 Morristown, TN 37815-0728 Phone 423-587-2942 • Fax 423-586-2188 www.adamswoodproducts.com by American Critemen CIRCLE NO. 100 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. CIRCLE NO. 146 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. Q & A continued from page 14 lem I have is trying to figure out which way I should go about making thin enough pieces. The piece or pieces will not be more than 2" long. I would appreciate any suggestions. Jim Teitloff Nashville, Tennessee The simple answer is to make your big pieces thin and then cut them to size. For larger thin pieces, use a carrier board on your planer. Essentially you use some double-sided tape to attach the walnut to a wide piece of MDF or other board, and run the piece through the planer until the veneer is the thickness you require. For smaller pieces (2" long applies) surface one side of a thicker piece then set your table saw to trim off a thinner lA(," piece, to the outside of the blade. The larger part of the wood guides against the fence. After it's thin, break out the utility knife and have some fun! — David Thiel, senior editor Where Can I Find the Materials for Your 'Authentic Arts & Crafts Finish' I am writing to inquire about a substitute for Lilly Industries' "warm brown glaze." I read your recipe for staining Arts & Crafts furniture using J.E. Moser's Shearton red dye followed by boiled linseed oil and then Lilly Industries' "warm brown glaze." You wrote that basically you live and die by this glaze in finishing Mission-style furniture. I have found the Moser's dye; but, as you no doubt know, Lilly Industries was acquired by Valspar some three years ago, and hence, the warm brown glaze is no longer available. Can you suggest a supplement or alternative glaze for my finish? Dr. Michael Reid Salt Lake City, Utah Since we first published that finish recipe, that glaze has gone through a long and tortured history: Sold, resold and now discontinued. But there is good news. Recently our editor and publisher, Steve Shanesy, spent about a month testing 30 or so different products to try to find one that replicates the look of one of Gustav Stickley's original finishes. After a lot of sample boards, we settled on using General Finishes' "Java" stain. It's a one-step coloring finish. Rag it on, let it flash and then wipe it off. Then topcoat it with lacquer, varnish, shellac or whatever you use normally. I just finished a Stickley D-handled bookcase with it and it looks as good as the three-step finish. General Finishes are widely available at home centers and woodworking stores. We bought ours at Lowe's. — Christopher Schwarz, executive editor Should I Rip Down My Lumber to Narrow Widths to Make a Tabletop? I am making a kitchen/dining table out of black walnut. When gluing up the boards to get the width for the top, do they need to be narrower than 6" wide for gluing? I have some boards that are 8" and 10" wide. But I read a tip somewhere that you should use pieces that are smaller than 6". Also, do you have any finishing recommendations for the table? Timothy Souder Higginsville, Missouri The adage about gluing up a tabletop from narrower boards to reduce warping is—in my opinion —not the way to go. Modern kiln-dried lumber in our climate-controlled homes isn't going to cup and twist very much. The top of a table is the most visible part of the project. It should look as good as possible, and wide boards generally look better than narrow ones. Match the boards without regard for their width (or even the direction of the boards' annular rings). Just make the top look its best. As to finishing, a varnish or polyurethane varnish would be wise because of its exposure to heat and daily wear. I don't recommend shellac for dining tables, however; it offers poor resistance to heat and alcohol spills (wine, etc.) PW — Christopher Schwarz, executive editor WRITE TO US Every day we get questions from readers on all subjects about their woodworking. Some are letters; many are e-mail messages. We are more than happy to share our woodworking experience with you by answering your questions or adding some clarity to whatever aspect of the craft you are unsure about. In addition to the hundreds we answer privately every month, we want to share the best questions here with readers. Send your questions via e-mail to popwood@fwpubs.com, or by mail to: Q&A • Popular Woodworking 4700 E. Galbraith Road Cincinnati, OH 45236 16 Popular Woodworking June 2005 |
