Popular Woodworking 2005-11 № 151, страница 106

After laying out and cutting the mortises and tenons, by whatever means you prefer, do the copes. You adjust the cope-bit height by raising it until it just skims the tenon. Instead of the standard router table fence, use a strip of y4"-thick plywood with a bit cutout in the center as a fence. This low fence can guide the shoulder without obstructing the tenon. Position the fence, then cope the rails, and the muntin and mullion blanks.

Follow up this operation with the two-step sticking cuts, and you should be ready to assemble the frame.

An added benefit of either of these bit sets is that the profile is proportioned to the application. It is narrower than the sticking profile on standard cabinetry cope-and-stick cutters, and it is placed somewhat deeper on the stock. Thus muntins and mullions cut using the bits are narrow, and the assembled frame "looks right."

Unfortunately, if you want to orchestrate a project with both wood-paneled and glazed doors, you won't find companion cutters for making the wood-paneled doors. PW

One swell result of mortise-and-tenon joinery in a divided-light frame is that the many parts align positively during assembly. None of the skinny mullions and muntins slide out of position as you work, because their tenons are seated in mortises.

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