Popular Woodworking 2006-10 № 157, страница 45

probably each correct. What is important is that they achieve their desired results.

In woodcarving, we have a peculiar set of circumstances. We have very few flat chisels and a whole variety of shapes and sizes of gouges with outside and possible inside bevels. Therefore, we need a consistent hand-sharpening method that addresses both tool varieties, and gives us a consistent working reference point.

There are a lot of sharpening machines out there and we will approach each for its merits. For more than 20 years, I have owned a Japanese horizontal waterstone grinder. We all know the traditional dry grinders found in most workshops. Tormek and Schep-pach have the vertical wet grinder market, and there is also the Lap-Sharp which uses 3M abrasive paper technology.

I like the wet grinders and the Lap-Sharp because they also protect your lungs. Respiratory protection is an important topic, worthy of careful consideration.

Finally, don't forget the little mechanical gerbil of grinding: the Dremel, shown above. What is important in woodcarving is first a flat bevel and in the process of sharpening not burning the temper out of delicate tools while shaping. This will be the basis in how to use the machines.

Today, most of the sharpening market in woodworking has progressed to slow-grind machines. Slow ones are the best since grinding should not be a dangerous act. I prefer to use my hands, specifically my wrists, as a guide in sharpening because in my carving style I reference my wrist all the time.

The Best Possible Jig

Woodcarving is a hand skill and I believe we enjoy it because we like to do wonderful things with our hands. They are the most mar-

A Dremel tool can be used to shape the bevels on the inside edge of carving gouges.

The horizontal waterstone features a large flat surface, making it easy to achieve a flat bevel on the tool.

The outer edge of the waterstone can also be used to shape the inside bevel on larger tools.

velous jig money can buy. I try to approach the machine with only the tool and myself. Here is my overview on sharpening: I use the machine for shaping the tool; once done, I use slipstones to refine the edge and finish on the strop.

We always need to redesign newly purchased tools so let's address our approach to each machine. The reason I like the Japanese horizontal waterstone, upper right, is it makes it easy to get a flat bevel. It has a #1,000-grit stone, which shapes without excessive scratch marks.

The outer edge on the stone is turned over so that I can address the inside bevel on my broader tools. I also like it because of continuity. I use the corresponding water slipstones to bring the edge up. The other thing I like about the waterstones is that you can shape them easily.

The Lap-Sharp has a large flat area next to the wheel. This allows sharpening with the hands in a natural carving position.

On a bench grinder, the left hand acts as a jig, so the tool can be returned to the same position after visual inspection.

I approach sharpening the same way I approach carving. I try to find a way to drop my hands into position, and register my wrist on the grinder as if I were carving on wood, and use the same angle of approach. My intention is that I will get the corresponding bevel

appropriate to my natural hand-carving position. On my Japanese grinder there is a tool rest that goes over a small portion of the wheel. It is perfect, like a bird perch for registering your wrist.

Japanese woodworkers think through their hands, so the

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Popular Woodworking October 2006