Popular Woodworking 2006-11 № 158, страница 45
in the mortises, and put in the upper-back rail, the small rail below the drawer, and the lower rails, with the stretcher in place between them. I then brushed glue on the tenons, and placed the second leg assembly on top. Turning the table upright on my bench, I clamped the joints and began to worry about the drawer. Half-blind dovetailed drawers don't bother me, but I'd never made one with the face tilted back at an angle. I decided to lay out the tails with the same angles they would have if the drawer front were vertical. This makes the top and bottom angles of the tails different in relation to the slanted drawer front which made the layout tricky, but it looked right when the joints were completed. After cutting the tails by hand, I laid out the pins on the ends of the drawer front, and removed most of the waste with an upcut spiral bit in my trim router. This speeds things up, and gives a perfectly flat surface where the back of the tail rests on the bottom of the pin. I then used a chisel to pare down to the layout lines. The pull was made from a cutoff piece from one of the legs. I trimmed it down to 1V4" x 1V4" by about 3" long. The pull finishes at 1 Vis" but the extra length gave me something to hold on to while cutting it to shape. I laid out the 1V + 30° 3" 3/4"- 11/8" After routing most of the waste, I use a chisel to pare the pins down the rest of the way. The router quickly establishes a consistent depth. I laid out the tails with the same angles from horizontal that I would have if the drawer front were vertical. The knob is cut with the band saw, and shaped with a rasp. shape of the pull on two adjacent faces, and cut it out on the band saw. I didn't worry about the exact size of the radius below the pyramid shaped top; that would come from the shape of my rasp. After cutting one face, I taped the scraps back on the block with clear packing tape and cut the adjacent side. With the rough cutting complete, I clamped the extra length in my vise, and finished shaping the pull with a rasp. The finished pull is held to the drawer front with a #8 x 11/4" screw from inside the drawer. I wanted an authentic looking finish, but didn't want to go to the trouble of fuming it with ammonia. I used W.D. Lock-wood Dark Fumed Oak aniline dye (wdlockwood.com or 866293-8913) diluted with alcohol. I brushed on the dye, and wiped it with a rag. I then brushed on two coats of amber shellac. After letting the shellac dry, I attached the top with figure-eight fasteners. I took off the gloss of the shellac with a Scotch-Brite pad and applied a coat of paste wax. PW Drawer pull popularwoodworking.com i 61 |
