Popular Woodworking 2007-10 № 164, страница 14

Letters

Use of Tar in Arts & Crafts Finish

I am a novice woodworker and have been slowly developing my skills with the restoration of my 1923 Craftsman bungalow. I'm always on the lookout for new finishing ideas (this being one of my weaker skills) and read the Authentic Arts & Crafts Finish article (Woodworking Magazine, Spring 2007) with great interest. There was some new information there that I look forward to applying to my own projects.

However, it also prompted me to write in regarding a finishing technique (or more aptly a formula) that I had read about in a publication I've long since misplaced. It was another method of recapturing the Stickley finish without resorting to fuming. As unorthodox as it sounds, it pretty much involved mixing one part non-fibered roofing tar with four parts Minwax red oak stain, then using it as a wiping stain. The idea is that the tar particles get stuck in the grain and the rest of the muddy-brown stain leaves a nice color behind.

It's then up to the finisher to apply a clear sealer coat of some kind - for which I use Waterlox's tung-oil varnish. I've experimented with this process and it works beautifully. Also, presumably because the tar in the stain doesn't dry quickly, you can lighten over-application (or correct splotches) by rubbing it out with the tung oil - a boon to an amateur finisher.

Aside from the obvious oak, I've also had luck using it on closed-grain woods like Douglas fir (of which all my house trim is made) and pine. My main concern is longevity - I have no idea how the finish is going to hold up over time. I'm also curious as to where this formula came from and if anyone else uses it. Am I crazy to put tar in my stain?

—Jason Miller, Sea Cliff, New York

There is a good historic precedentfor using roofing tar. Modern wood stains were in their infancy in the first 20 years of the 20th century. Asphal-tum and Gilsonite (a similar mineral) were both used in period stains and are still an ingredient in some pigment stains. In theory there shouldn't be any problems. The asphalt dissolves in mineral spirits and is certainly the right color. As long as the stain is thoroughly dry this method will work. A sealer coat of shellac will provide good insurance.

I've always been afraid to try the roofing tar

because I don't know what o ther chemicals might be in the mix, but many woodworkers have successfully used this.

— Robert W. Lang, senior editor

Stickley Morris Chair Blog Entry

The blog entry on Stickley Morris chair details is one of the best I've seen posted (popular woodworking.com/blog on July 2, 2007). I love Arts & Crafts and Shaker furniture; the detail is what always makes the difference in quality work. Great job - please do more.

— Bill Dalton, via e-mail

Thanks Bill. Since the first post on Morris chair details, I've written another one on Stickley drawer construction. B ecaus e of the en thusias tic response, you can be sure that we will be doing similar features on authentic details both on the blog and in the magazine. We've been talking over what to cover, and have planned some interesting road trips for the coming months.

— Robert W. Lang, senior editor

Before Buying a Respirator, Make An Appointment With the Doctor

After reading Out on a Limb in the August 2007 issue (#163), I have a comment. I agree wholeheartedly that we need to control dust to reduce the impact on our precious lungs (especially bre athing such things like smoke!). One thing you (essentially) suggest is using a cartridge type of respirator.

Before using a cartridge respirator, one should be sure that one's lungs and heart can withstand the extra pressure that these exert. I do this sort of thing as part of my job (I'm the health and safety officer at

South Dakota State University). It's usually just called "lung testing" or "breath testing." In addition, respirators are then "fit tested" to be sure that they fit properly. I'm sure lung testing can be done by any physician, and there are other trained individuals who can do this.

Putting on these respirators seems trivial, but it is not. In the past, we have rejected people from using such respirators after finding problems such as a young fellow (22) who had TB lesions and he never knew that he was infected. Another person was found to have heart irregularities. Both of these conditions could have caused dire consequences when using a respirator for long periods. We found these by finding "something not right" during the test, and having them go to a medical doctor for further testing. In the past, there have been cases where we found problems after someone started using a respirator without first being tested, including shortness of breath, high pulse rates and other problems.

I applaud the use of proper respirators and nuisance masks for working around dust (and other stuff), but really feel people should know that their initial health should be checked before using respirators. In addition, make sure the proper type of cartridge is being used, as many different types are available from dust, to organic solvents, to many other chemicals. PW — Gary Yarrow, Brookings, South Dakota

Question? Comment?

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Popular Woodworking welcomes comments from readers about the magazine or woodworking in general, as well as questions on all areas of woodworking. We are more than happy to share our woodworking experience with you by answering your questions or adding some clarity to whatever aspect of the craft you are unsure about, and if you have a complaint, we want to address it whenever possible.

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14 ■ Popular Woodworking October 2007