Popular Woodworking 2007-10 № 164, страница 23

Popular Woodworking 2007-10 № 164, страница 23

Arts & Mysteries

8 Begin the cut at the near corner. As I saw, I proceed on both lines at once. This is the same principle I use for all of my saw cuts.

9 Tip the saw's toe down to finish the cut. You don't need a saw without set for this to work. The saw finds the path of least resistance. Just keep a nice relaxed grip like the one you see here.

/"fc Place the chisel a tiny I Vr distance from the gauged line. Even though I'll hold the chisel vertically when I tap it with my mallet, a single tap will bring me back to the gauged line.

"t "t You can still see the line.

That's just where I want it. Whether you leave this line or chop it out affects the fit of the finished joint. I always try to leave this line.

"t <"% Pare away material to make room for the bev-I ^ eled side of the chisel, then tap tap again at the gauged line. Repeat this tap-and-pare process until you are almost halfway through. Then flip the board over and repeat the process from the other side.

With the pins marked,

gauge the thickness of the drawer sides and transfer that mark to the drawer front. Again, do both sides independently.

marking.

Pencil lines drawn square

to the rabbet complete the

"t <3 The tails are done. Now it's time to mark the I <J pins. No pencil is going to fit between these tails! I use the awl end of my trusty striking knife at right.

£~ Use the same sawing I Vj technique as before. If I were joining two harder woods, I'd have to saw these lines out. But the white pine is so soft, I can leave some of the line. Remember when I was chopping out the tails? Had I chopped out the gauged line, I'd have to leave these lines. There's no definitive answer about leaving lines or chopping them out. All you need to know is that the fit is influenced by this saw cut and how you chop the waste between the tails.

^ Oh no! I've gone over the I J gauged line. Terrible mistake? No, this is the way it was done in the 18th century. It allows me to get my saw a little bit deeper, which saves time chopping out the waste.

<|Q Here's my little trick. With

the saw cut extended, I can dig the heel of my saw deep into this corner. I sharpen my saws to include some aggressive teeth here, just for this purpose.

"t This time, place the chisel into the gauged line. If I left the line, I Z/ I might have to plane the drawer sides down to bring them flush with the pins. This approach might make the sides "under flush." But I'll use hide glue to glue this drawer up and I may need a little space for the glue. I'm hoping it will all come out just right.

26 ■ Popular Woodworking October 2007