Popular Woodworking 2009-02 № 174, страница 45
To secure the breadboard ends, 1 bored '/V-diameter holes through the end boards and tenons-then I pegged the joints with ebony pegs. Be sure to make the holes in the tenons elongated so that the top does not split when it moves with the seasons. I beveled the underside of the tabletop only slightly to leave nearly the full thickness showing. In the end, after trimming and cutting mistakes, the table began to look rather thick. This is no delicate table; let the Vikings roar! 1 added butterfly inlay to the top that measured Vs" x 1V4" x5'/2".I cut the recesses in the top usinga chisel and a router plane. Then I did the fine fitting of the inlay with a chisel. The Base: Legs and Mortises 1 glued up the legs for this table from 8/4 stock. 1 would have preferred to use a single thick piece of wood for each leg, but 1 wanted to use as much of the limber from the vineyard as possible. When makingsquare legs, it is best to use slash grain (sometimes called bastard grain), where the annular rings run diagonally across the end grain, from corner to corner. This gives you a uniform grain pattern on all four faces of the leg. The legs have broad chamfers on all four long edges. I cut the l"-wide chamfers the complete length of each leg with the table saw. Each leg has a through-mortise that begins 5" up from the floor to receive a hay rake stretcher. Before drilling the waste holes for these mortises, score the final boundaries of each mortise with a marking knife to ensure It starts with a saw. To make the breadboard end, I begin by sawing out the Remove waste in haste. A few good whacks with a chisel and mallet shoulder of the tenon. The block of wood acts as guide for the saw's blade. popped out most of the waste. Trimming by hand. Then I cleaned up the cheek Ready for the pegs. In the finished breadboard end, you can see the stub tenon that fits into the and shoulder using my rabbet plane. groove and the five longer tenons. 62 ■ Popular Woodworking February 2009 |
