Popular Woodworking 2009-08 № 177, страница 16

Popular Woodworking 2009-08 № 177, страница 16

Knee returns. I used my 12" frame saw to scroll out the shape on my knee returns. These blocks soften the transition between the cabriole leg and the seat rails, I left my line and cleaned up lo the line with my carving gouges.

refinishing remove the other marks? Did the carver simply clean up the surface of t he seat rails later?

It doesn't seem so, I would prefertoglue up the chairand attach the knee returns last, Att aching the knee returns to t he legs mean s 1 have another surface competing with the mortise and tenon for the location of the rail. If I relieved the tenon a little to allow me to slide the rail down against the knee return, I'd lose structural integrity and also mess up the alignment of the mouldingsand the rabbet at the top ofthe chair. Yikes!

Conclusion

The assembly ofthe seat rails should have been a straightforward glue-up. But as I expected, [ encountered still more challenges. The side rails had to be faired carefully. 1 was worried about how many limes those mortiseand tenons were put together and pulled part. 1 think they gel looser with everydry-fit. The lack ofgood reference faces made the rabbet for the seat just a bit more difficult than any rabbel I've ever cut. The moulding seemed to go all right until 1 had to match it in the end grain at the top of the legs. Be sure your gouge is super sharp before you try this (and don't ask me how 1 know that).

1 decided to glue the knee returns onto the legs as Christopher Storb suggested in my June 2009 article (issue #176). I'm hoping to get a good glue joint there when 1 glue the chair up, but I'm not convinced it's going to be OK. pw

Visit Adam's bloftatartiandmyilerien.com for more discussion of traditional woodworking techniques.

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