39 - Modular Wall Storage , страница 19

39 - Modular Wall Storage , страница 19


holes form pockets for the ends of the conduit which keeps it from moving from side to side.

CLEATS. To prevent the grid from racking, I added three narrow cleats (B) that fit into the notches in the uprights. Besides adding extra rigidity, these cleats are used to mount the grid to the wall.

To determine the length of the cleats, arrange the uprights on the floor like they'll be in the final grid. Then measure the total width of the grid and cut the cleats to length.

CONDUIT. Before attaching the cleats, you'll need to cut the conduit to length (IV2" shorter than the cleats) and feed it through the inner uprights. After capping the ends of the conduit with the outer uprights, you can glue and screw the cleats in place.

MOUNT GRID. Now you're ready to mount the grid to the wall. The size of the grid may make it awkward to handle. But a temporary

NOTE; hanger blocks are made from "two-by" material; hooks are v4" hardboard





wall cleat will simplify the installation, see photos on page 18.

HANGING BRACKETS. With the grid in place, you can turn your attention to the hanging brackets that support the storage units. Depending on the unit, there are

NOTE: there is a right and

left version of these hooks. they are identical

except for the side the countersink is drilled on.


two different lengths of brackets, see drawing above. But aside from that, each one is the same.

A hanger block made from "two-by" material attaches to the back of each unit. And a set of four hardboard hooks fit over the conduit on the grid.

When making these parts I used a couple of "mass production" techniques. Not just because its quicker. But because it ensures that all the parts are uniform.

HANGER BLOCKS. Take the hanger blocks (C) for instance. There's a pair of notches in each edge to accept the hooks. And each notch starts 1" in from the end, see Fig. 2. So to make these cuts accurately, I used the rip fence on the table saw as a stop.

HOOKS. It's just as important that the hooks (D) are the same size and shape. Especially the slots in the hooks that fit over the conduit.

So I used an old trick when drilling the holes that form the ends of the slots, see margin. Then I completed the slots using a simple jig for the table saw, refer to Shop Solutions on page 30.

Now all that's left is to glue and screw the hooks into the notches in the hanger blocks.

A /4 framing square clamped to the drill press table makes it easy to position the hooks quickly and accurately when drilling holes for the slots.


scrap keeps guide square to notch


guide is made from 14" hardboard


rout 1v?."-wide notches %" deep

NOTE: notches are

identical for long hanger block



dado blade


short hanger block shown

No. 39



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