68 - Our All-New Router Jig, страница 17
in place. It is simply cut to length and screwed in place. (Note that the T-track is cut flush with the aluminum on the front edge of the table.)
Handles - To make it easier to get a grip on the table when sliding it, I added a handle at each end, on the bottom face. Each handle (F) is just a narrow piece of plywood that is glued and screwed flush with the end. You can see these in Figure 8.
Cleat - Now that you have the sliding table complete, you can add it to the tapered bed. The trick here is to secure the table to the bed, but still allow it to slide smoothly from side to side. If you take a look at Figure 8, you can see how this is done. A cleat and spacer block are used to "pinch" the table to the top of the tapered bed. The cleat will get screwed down just tight enough to allow the table to slide smoothly.
The cleat (G) and spacer (II) are cut from 3/4m plywood. After cutting them to size, I turned the sliding table over and positioned the two pieces using carpet tape (Figure 8). The carpet tape holds the pieces in place while you drill the pilot and shank holes for the screws, as shown in Figure 8a. Once the holes are drilled, you can remove the spacer block and cleat from the sliding table in order to add the table to the tapered bed.
Strike Plates - Before you actually attach the sliding table to the
(1" x 3Vz")
TURN TABLE UPSIDE-DOWN
tapered bed, there is one small detail to take care of. I added a small piece of aluminum bar stock to each end of the tapered bed, as you can see in Figure 6. These pieces of aluminum will serve as strike plates for the stops that are added later. But it's
SECOND: DRILL 3/i6" f - SHANK HOLE
DRILL s/3z" PILOT HOLE
much easier to screw them in
place at this point (before the sliding table has been added).
Assembly - Once the strike plates are in place, you can add the sliding table to the tapered bed and screw the spacer and cleat in place, just as you see in Figure 9. Tighten the screws just enough so that the table slides smoothly.
Stops - One of the last things to add to the sliding table is a couple of stops. These can be adjusted to limit the travel of the table in order to control the length of the mortise you want to make. The stops couldn't be much simpler. I just used a pair of brass stair gauges, see photo in margin. (You can find stair gauges at most hardware stores.) The stops simply clamp onto the aluminum strip on the front of the sliding table.
A Stops. To control the length of the mortise, a pair of brass stair gauges are used as stops.
#0 x %" Fh WOODSCREW
(91/2" x 23%")
1/&"x11/2" ALUMINUM, 23%" LONG
#e x %" Fh WOODSCREW
v FRONT VIEW y
TURN JIG UPSIDE-DOWN TO ATTACH CLEAT AND SPACER