68 - Our All-New Router Jig, страница 18
ROUTER PLATE «
WIDTH OF CARRIAGE
(8) LEVER ARM
PIECES ARE PLYWOOD
LEVER ARM BLOCK
; i 5Ae" FENDER 5/16" LOCK : WASHER NUT \
LEVER ARM BLOCK
12" FULL-EXTENSION DRAWER SLIDE
5/ie" CARRIAGE BOLT, 2Vz" LONG
The sliding table and tapered bed work together to hold the work-piece that is being mortised. But to hold the router, you need to build a carriage. This carriage is really nothing more than an open box that travels back and forth on drawer slides. The carriage doesn't exactly hold the router. Instead, the router is mounted to a router plate which fits into the carriage. (See page 35 for more information on the router plate I used.)
To build the carriage, I started by cutting a front (I), back (J), and two sides (K) to size from 3AU plywood. The side pieces start off as 12" square blanks. But when it comes to cutting the front and back, you'll need to size these pieces W wider
than the width of your router plate. (The plate I used is ll3/*" wide.)
The front and back are joined to the sides with tongue and groove joints. So the next step is to cut grooves near the edges of the sides and tongues on the ends of the front and back pieces to fit (Figures 11, 11a, and lib).
Next you'll need to cut a clearance slot in the front piece to allow
you to slide the router in and out of the mortising machine without having to remove the router bit.
The left side of the carriage also has a slot cut in it. This slot is for a steel rod that is part of the lever arm assembly that will be added later.
Finally, you'll need to drill a 5/W'-dia. hole and cut a V8"-wide kerf along the inside face of each side piece. These are for some clamp
Lever Arm. The
carriage travels on a pair of drawer slides. A lever arm is used to move the carriage forward or backward.
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W - %"
#& x 11/a" Fh WOODSCREW