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adding the TopAll the effort put into building a strong base for the workbench would be wasted if it didn't have a sturdy, flat benchtop to match. If you take a look at Figure 4, you can see how 1 did this. The first thing to note is that the top is made from "two-by" stock and MDF. Why MDF? For starters, it provides a smooth, flat surface. Second, it's heavy, which adds to the stability of the workbench. And finally, MDF is affordable. Layers. As you can see in Figure 4, four layers of MDF are used to create a thick top. But not all the layers are full pieces of MDF, however. Only the two top layers are full size. The bottom two layers are made from pieces of MDF. By using pieces, I was able to get these extra "layers" from a single sheet of MDF. Installing these pieces just along the edges of the benchtop provides the extra thickness right where it's needed the most for clamping workpieces or adding accessories. Benchtop Assembly. Just like I built the base in sections, I also assembled the benchtop in sections. The top two layers were cut to size and then glued and screwed together. In the same way, the bottom two layers (assembled from pieces) were completed. Once that's done, you can assemble the entire benchtop. The only trick here is keeping all the edges flush. To see how I did this, turn to Shop Short Cuts on page 14. Edging. MDF edges aren't all that durable. So to protect the edges of the benchtop and to give the workbench a more finished look, I attached edging made from "two-by" stock, as in Figures 4 and 4a. And to provide a dean, finished look, this edging is wrapped around the top with mitered comers. i. I #6 x Fh WOODSCREW *& x 2W" Fh WOODSCREW END FILLER (17 x 17% - % MDF) #& x 2Vi" Fh WOODSCREW 34 ShopNotes No. 89 FRONT/BACK EDGING {114 x 3 - B&) TOP END FILLER (17 x 17V* - 34 MDF) #0 x W Fh WOODSCREW (Kr EDGE FILLER (6x85-% MDF) Ud NOTE: CHAMFER TOP AND BOTTOM OF EDGING END EDGING (1^ x 3 - 32) END VIEW #£ x W Fh WOODSCREW #B x 2W Fh WOODSCREW |
