Woodworker's Journal 101-Projects-for-Woodworkers, страница 57




Woodworker

hold. The backrest (Figure 3) is shaped to a slight curve from a piece of 2" stock, and here a band saw will do a nice job; otherwise use a spokeshave and rasp. When the backrest is completed, and well sanded, use it to lay out the wide dado in the upright (Figure 2). Cut this dado to a depth of X". The backrest is fastened in its slot with four #10 flat-headed (fh) screws, driven from the back into counterbored holes and hidden with dowel plugs.

The legs are shaped from 2" stock cut to a length of 19". Taper them as shown in Figure 4. and rasp or lathe turn the square to a round, 16" up from the foot. One inch above this rounded portion, the seat tenon is shaped to a diameter of 1S4". Leave the tenon long to be trimmed flush with the seat later on.

A drill press is ideal for boring the leg-tenon holes, but, with care, the compound angles can be bored with a brace and bit. Use a bevel gauge to line up the auger, and remember that the legs splay 80 degrees to the front and rear, as well as to the sides (Figures 5 and 6). The best approach is to drill one front hole and then insert a leg tenon into the top side of the seat. Align the brace and bit with this leg, and proceed to bore the other front hole through from the top. A similar procedure is used for the rear legs.

Before fastening the legs, sand them, and give

each corner a W chamfer for a lighter appearance. Cut a saw kerf in the top of each tenon for a hardwood wedge, which is driven at a right angle to the grain of the seat. Glue the tenons into their holes and carefully drive in glue-coated wedges. The tenons can now be trimmed and sanded flush with the seat surface.

Fasten the backrest assembly to the seat by-driving the tenon into the seat mortise. Screw and glue a beveled reinforcing block (Figure 6) to the underside of the seat with three 2" #12 screws, and screw the tenon stub to the block with two counterbored 114" #10 screws, covered with 14" dowel plugs. Also counterbore the bottom of the seat for two 2" #12 screws, to be driven up into the upright and plugged. These are shown in Figure 7.

Go over the assembled chair with a sander or rasp, and round off all sharp edges. Finish sand and apply the finish of your choice. We used a dark antique-pine stain, followed by thinned shellac sealer. After the shellac dries, give the entire piece a rubdown with 3/0 steel wool. Dust carefully and apply three coats of low-luster urethane varnish.

Now with this basic chairmaking experience, perhaps you'll be willing to tackle that elegant Windsor or Hepplewhite chair you've always wanted.

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