Woodworker's Journal 1980-4-5, страница 21

Cobbler's Bench Coffee Table

If Early American is your favorite furniture style, you may want to consider this for your next project. It's a fine example of an old time cobbler's bench, with overall dimensions that make it ideal for use as a modern day coffee table.

Start construction with the bottom piece. You probably won't find a board that's 18" wide, therefore it will be necessary to edge-glue two or more narrow boards to get the needed width. Glue and clamp firmly, allowing to dry overnight, then trim to finish size of 5/4 (1 '/•" actual) x 18 x 42. Lay out the curve as shown on the grid pattern, then cut out with a jig saw.

The four Tegs are 15'/»" long and square tapered. They measure 2" at the base, narrowing down to IV*" at the top. The tenon is about 1 3/16" long. To make the leg, cut a

!>iece of 2" square stock a bit longer than necessary. Use a athe to turn the V*" dia. tenon. Allow extra length on the tenon for later trimming. If you don't have a lathe, the tenon can also be hand made with rasp. Trim to final length and bevel the leg bottom so it sits flat on the floor, then use a sharp plane to cut the tapers.

After cutting the two cleats to size (5/4 x 3 x 16) make the splayed leg drilling jig, following the three-step direction. A ³/*" bit is used to bore the vertical hole through the squared block. Align the jig so that the center of the drill bit will start IVi" in from the edge of the cleat (see drawing). Also align the jig so that it's centerline is at 45 degrees to the cleat edges. When properly aligned, clamp in place and drill tenon holes with V*" bit. Repeat procedure for other three holes.

The two sides are made from V*" x 5" x 16" stock. Refer to the grid pattern to cut the curve. Also a Vi" x 3Vi" slot is cut in one of the sides. The slot starts Vi" from the edge and Vi " from the top.

The back and main divider can be made next. The back measures V* x 5 x 18, while the main divider measures V* x 3⁷/« x 18. Note that each has a Vi" x Vi" x 12" long stopped

dado located Vi" down from the top edge. The slide itself is cut Vi x 3Vi x 12. Next, make the Vi x 3⁷/» x 3 slide box divider and the 2" high small dividers.

Before assembly, give all parts a thorough sanding, making sure to remove all planer marks. Gean up any saw marks on the curved cuts. Use a spokeshave or drawknife to give an "antiqued" edge to the four legs.

Begin assembly by joining the four legs to cleats. Apply glue to both leg tenons and cleat holes, then mate together. Rotate leg so that bottom bevel will sit flat on floor. Allow to dry overnight, then trim any excess tenon that protrudes through cleat top. Now the cleat and leg assembly can be joinedto the bottom with 1V* " x #10 wood screws. Note that the cleat is located 1" from the back, front and side edge of the bottom piece.

Attach the two sides and the back to the bottom with glue and 2" finishing nails set below the surface. Be sure the slotted side is in front. Next, add the main divider and slide box divider, again using glue and finishing nails. Check the sliding top for a good fit, and make adjustments as necessary. The small dividers can now be glued in place as shown in the drawing.

Make two drawer slides (see detail) and attach to the underside of the bottom with Wi" x #8 wood screws. The drawer itself has a V*" x 4 x 8 front, with Vi" thick sides and back. The bottom is V*" plywood. The leather drawer pull is a nice detail, quite appropriate for the bench of a cobbler. Simply cut a narrow slot in the drawer front, then loop a 1" strip of leather and insert through the opening. Use a couple of small tacks to secure it in place.

Final sand all surfaces, giving corners and edges a good rounding to simulate years of wear. Be sure to remove glue smudges. Apply a stain that reproduces the look of old pine (Minwax Early American is one). Allow to dry, then complete the project with two coats of polyurethan varnish.