Woodworker's Journal 1982-6-5, страница 18


Restoring Antiques

More Finishing Tips

by John W. Olson

As discussed in my last column, coarse-grained hardwoods such as oak, mahogany, walnut, and ash (among many other wood species) must have their pores filled with a paste wood filler in order to be finished to mirror-like smoothness. Using a piece of burlap or a coarse rag, the filler is rubbed across the grain, packing it into the individual pores.

In most cases, proper application of a paste wood filler requires that the excess be removed after about thirty minutes. However, be sure you remove all the filler from the surface. If you don't, and it sets-up, you're probably going to have a problem - and the problem may be even greater if the wood was stained before adding the filler.

Unstained surfaces can usually be cleaned with a thorough sanding using very fine sandpaper. However, it is very difficult to remove excess filler from a stained surface without leaving light colored patches. Sometimes, judicious sanding with very fine sandpaper will do the trick, but you must be careful not to cut into the stained surface. If necessary, a reapplication of stain in the immediate area will often correct the blemish.

If sanding won't work, you can try using a cloth moistened with lacquer thinner. Just add enough to the cloth so that it wets the wood surface - too much thinner might cause it to run to adjoining surfaces. Generally, you will find that it is necessary to wipe the entire surface to get acceptable results. If done properly you will pick up enough stain to amalgamate with the surrounding surface and leave a minimum of color difference. This trick can also be used to

lighten areas that appear too dark. Extra care should be taken if Plastic Wood® or any of its relatives is used as lacquer thinner will soften these materials. In fact, lacquer thinner can be used to rejuvenate this product if it has begun to harden in the container. When using lacquer thinner, be sure to take proper safety precautions. Use a respirator to protect yourself from breathing the vapors and wear rubber gloves to keep it from contacting your nands.

If the color remains uneven, or if sapwood shows up light, (as often happens with walnut) properly applied colors in oil can usually correct the difference. Sienna, burnt sienna, umber, and burnt umber, either used alone or mixed together, can closely match almost any color used in wood finishing. A very small amount of these colors will go a long way. They should be thinned with mineral spirits and ap-

Iilied with a soft cloth. Rub the color in, blending and hign-ighting to match the stained surface.

Where very light streaks occur (white sapwood in walnut for example) it may be necessary to apply the colors with a very fine brush. A one inch sign painters brush is ideal. It doesn't leave any brush marks when the paint (that's what colors in oil are) is of the proper viscosity and the brush is used properly. The color should be thin enough to just barely cover the wood, yet allow the grain to show through. It should run and level so that the brush marks don't show. The brush is used with soft gentle strokes, coaxing the color to cover, yet not be readily apparent. Successful application takes a lot of concentration and practice.

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