Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-2, страница 18

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Restoring Antiques

Applying a Clear Finish

by John W. Olson

In the last issue I briefly discussed some of the common types of clear final finishes: lacquer, polyurethane, penetrating oil, shellac, old-fashioned varnish and sanding sealer. In order to get satisfactory results though, these products must be properly used, so I'll devote this column to a discussion on how to apply them. The first step, choosing a brush, is a difficult task as really good finishing brushes have almost disappeared from the market place. And, like everything else, they've become very expensive. The best approach is to go into your local paint store and ask to be shown some of the larger brushes used by sign painters. It's rare to find a sign painter's brush that is large enough to be useful for furniture finishing, but if you can find one, buy it. An inch and a half or two inch brush is about the minimum desirable size and it will cost $20 to $30 (maybe more) for a really good one.

A study of a sign painter's brushes will help you select an acceptable varnish brush. Note how soft the bristles are and that each one is flagged. A flagged bristle is one that is split in at least two or more parts at the very end, and this characteristic allows the application of a finish with very few (if any)brush marks.

Another thing to look for in a good brush is taper. Look at the brush from the bristle end and note that the middle part is thinner than the outside. The outside bristles are shorter than those inside.

The thickness of the brush is also important. There must be enough bristles to carry sufficient volume of finish to cause the finish to flow and level. The more expensive brushes are made with this in mind and a two inch brush will be 3/4 inch thick (or better) while a 3 inch brush will be almost an inch thick. The bristles also must be long enough to be soft and flexible but not long enough to be floppy. Squeeze the brush near the center just below the ferrule. The bristles shouldn't seem to suddenly thin out as you move your fingers toward the brush end.

When using the brush to apply clear finish, dip your brush only about halfway and never more than two-thirds. Try not to impregnate the heel of the brush as over a period of time this area will become hard. If the brush isn't thoroughly cleaned the flexibility of the brush will be affected. Flow the finish onto the surface with long, even strokes. Work slowly. Don't slap, this only makes bubbles that are hard to brush out. Most professionals lay on the finish in stripes with dry areas in between. They then go back and cross-brush, again using slow, long, light strokes. After the surface is covered it can be further leveled and smoothed by using a technique called tipping. When tipping, just barely touch the surface with the brush so that only the flag ends of the bristles touch.

The first coat should be thinned about 20 to 25 percent with the thinner recommended by the manufacturer. This coat will penetrate and seal the surface in preparation for full coats to follow. Sand very lightly between coats with very fine sandpaper, 220 grit or finer. Wet and dry sandpaper is preferable for this rub down. However, keep in mind that when the surface is wet with water or mineral spirits, it is easy to sand through the finish and into bare wood.

Brush care is important. After use, carefully wash in a thinner compatible with the finish used, or use a good brush cleaner. This washing should be repeated at least three times, each time using new clean liquid. After the rinse there should be no trace of the finish in the cleaning liquid. Following this give it a good washing in hot water with a

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