Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-2, страница 25

The splines are cut from a hardwood board so that the grain runs across them. The cutting procedures shown in Fig. 13 will prevent the splines from being trapped between the spinning blade and the fence. It's dangerous to run a vertical board over tne blade without some support; use a tenon jig or an auxiliary fence. Set the fence and auxiliary fence a distance from the blade equal to the spline thickness. Make a cut with the face side of the board out, and if the stock is thick enough for two splines, reverse the board and run another cut with the face side against the fence. The second cut, which frees the splines, is made using the miter gauge for a crosscut. Do not butt the workpiece against the fence for this operation.

Sometimes it's desirable to join

frame parts with an invisible spline as shown in Fig. 14. This requires that the spline grooves be stopped short of the outside and inside edges of the joined parts. The diameter of a table saw blade makes this operation impossible in most cases but the portable router is made to order for the task.

You'll need an edge guide accessory for the router and, to this guide, a V*" x 2" x 9" wooden fence is screwed as shown in Fig. 15. This fence guides the router bit as it is plunged into the

workpiece. Use a straight router bit the diameter of which determines the spline thickness. In most cases either a Y» or Vi in. dia. bit is used.

Again, before grooving, it's important to mark a face side on each of the mating pieces so the spline grooves, even if not centered exactly, will still

(continued on page 58)

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