Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-2, страница 23

the base to the strips to maintain alignment while permanently fastening strips with countersunk screws through them and in to the base.

Set the base on the saw table and run a cut about halfway through the base, from front to back. Two pieces of hardwood are mitered at one end as shown and attached to the base with screws and glue. The two hardwood fences must meet exactly at 90 degrees and be centered on the saw kerf previously cut. This should be checked carefully with a framing square. When using the jig cut one piece on one side of the jig and the mating piece on the opposite side. When it's necessary to cut a large number of mitered pieces of identical length, a stop block can be clamped to each fence at the desired position.

Now that we've learned how to make nice miter cuts, how do we go about permanently joining the parts? In the discussion on making miter joints with' hand tools you may recall that these joints, made either flat or on edge, cannot be reliably held together with glue alone. You can get away with gluing and finish nailing small frames for pictures, but for most projects the joints have to be strengthened with either dowels or splines.

The use of dowels is questionable because the dowel holes need to be carefully aligned across the mating parts or the joint will not close properly. The biggest disadvantage of the doweling method is the fact that the dowels may shrink in time and the integrity of the joint will be impaired.

The best way to reinforce a miter joint is with some form of wood spline that can be glued into a slot cut in both parts. Fig. 8 shows one method of splining flat miter joints. This is a strong and relatively easy joint which requires a simple jig to hold the glued parts while cutting the spline slots.

As shown in Fig. 9, the jig is just a block with a large 90 degree notch. The tablesaw fence is set so that the blade will cut a slot in the center of the frame parts. The width of the slot (and thickness of the spline) depends on the size of the frame. In most cases you can cut a slot which corresponds to the thickness of your sawblade (usually (continued on next page)

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