Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-3, страница 50

Beginning Woodworker (cont'd)

Make a pass over the cutter and note how close the kerf is to the corner and the shoulder line. Adjust the work-piece against the miter gauge so that the next pass will cut diagonally from the far corner to the rear shoulder line. There is little tolerance for error when making this cut. Once it's done you simply clean out the remaining tri

angular waste with several more passes. Again, you should set up a stop block to duplicate this cut on the opposite end of the stile and for the other stile.

For the final operation switch to a regular blade and elevate it to diagonally trim the rabbet left on the rail

ends. This is done with the miter gauge set as it was for the previous cut and the rail face up on the table. The cut should just meet the far corner of the rail and go diagonally back to exit at the shoulder line (Fig. 19).

There are yet other types of miter joints that do not rely on splines for reinforcement. One other joint in the half-lap family that's seldom used is the blind corner lap (Fig. 20). This

joint hides the end grain of the tenon but sacrifices some gluing surface because of the reduction of tenon area. The closed or dead-ended mortise cut into the stile is, for all practical pur

poses, a hand tool job and a fairly bothersome one at that.

Two better mitered joints that can be machine cut are the mitered mortise with through tenon (Fig. 21A) and probably the best of the lot, the hidden mitered mortise and tenon (Fig. 21B), both of which will be dealt with in the next issue.

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