Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-6, страница 21

fir plywood. If drawers are very wide and will support heavy loads, it's usually best to add one or more reinforcing strips across the bottom as shown in Fig. 3, rather than using a thicker plywood bottom.

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The choice of joints for fastening drawer parts together depends on the quality of the drawers, their required strength and, from a practical point of view, the amount of time you are willing to spend on making them. Obviously, you would not choose nail-reinforced butt joints for the drawers of a fine antique reproduction anymore than you would use hand-cut dovetails for the many drawers of a shop storage cabinet.

For simple utility drawers, the nailed, or better still, dowel-reinforced rabbet joint is a good choice for joining the front to the side (Fig. 4). As shown, this joint can be used for either flush or lipped drawers by adjusting the width of the rabbet.

An appropriate method for joining the back to the sides is simply to dado the sides to receive the full thickness of the back (Fig. 5). It's customary to cut the dados so that the back is inset about Vi inch from the ends of the

drawer sides.

The bottom is held in place by cutting grooves in both sides and the

front. This is done before the drawer parts are assembled, a V* x V* inch groove being cut as shown in Fig, 2, using a tabiesaw and dado head, or by using a router and V* inch straight bit.

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Note that the drawer back is not grooved but instead is butted against the bottom which is nailed to it. This type of construction, though low on the quality scale, is simple, durable and perfectly appropriate for utility or so-called primitive country furniture.

From the standpoint of quality, an intermediate type of front to side joint is shown in Fig. 6A. Although the

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