Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-1, страница 49

Toy Car Carrier

by C.J. Maginley

By now, no doubt, a substantial number of the 1983 Christmas toys have suffered severe casualties. They've bent, cracked, leaked, popped, sprung, and snapped in countless numbers. In just a few short weeks they've gone from store shelves to an unceremonious toss into the trash heap.

Perhaps, herein lies much of the appeal of wooden toys. A sturdy, well-made hardwood toy will last for generations, and provide generations of our children with hours of imaginative play. And as the years of wear begin to show, an hour or two of scraping and sanding will give it an almost new iook.

Begin by cutting the chassis (part A), engine (part B), and window (part C) to overall width and length. At a point 3Vi in. from the back of the chassis, drill a Vi in. diameter by ³A in, deep hole for the pivot pin (part Q).

Assemble parts A, B, and C as shown. Use glue and clamp securely. To keep the pieces from sliding when clamped, it's a good idea to drive two or three small brads into each side of part B, then snip the heads off so about 1/16 in. protrudes.

The three cab axle supports are made next. Cut to size as shown, then

drill a Vi in. diameter by V* in. deep hole for the back pin (part 1).

Cut parts J and H as shown, then locate and drill holes for part I and P. Part J is permanently glued to part 0, however part H must be removable. This is accomplished by gluing part I to part H and parts P to part 0.

The wheels (parts G) can be lathe-turned to the dimensions shown or purchased ready-made from Wood-

- Bill of Materials-

(All Dimensions Actual)

- Bill of Materials-

(All Dimensions Actual)

craft Supply Corp., 41 Atlantic Ave., Woburn, MA 01888. Their wheel measures 2³/> in. diameter by 9/16 in. thick, and a package of 12 sells for $3.95 postpaid.

Next, cut the tariler bed (part 0) to overall length and width, then drill four 3/16 in. diameter by Vi in. deep holes for the end pins (parts P). Also

drill a Vi in. diameter by V* in. deep hole for the back pin (part I).

Cut parts J and H as shown, then locate and drill holes for parts I and P. Part J is permanently glued to part 0, however, part H must be removable. This is accomplished by gluing part 1 to part H and parts P to part 0.

Parts K, the two tracks, can now be made. The Vs in. deep by Vi in. wide groove is best cut using the table saw equipped with a dado-head cutter or by making repeated passes with a regular sawblade. A safe procedure involves using the rip-fence to cut the groove into a wide (at least 2Vi in.) piece of V* in. thick stock. Following this, rip the piece to its 1 in. width, then resaw it to the Y» in. thickness. Parts K can then be glued in place, flush with the edges of part 0 and between parts H and J.

The runners (parts X) are made following the same basic procedure as was used for parts K. The notch is best cut using a sharp chisel. The Vi in. diameter by Vi in. deep hole is drilled to accept part P when the runners are being used to unload cars.

Parts L, M, and 0 are glued together using cut-off brads if needed to keep things from slipping. The pivot pin (part Q) is glued into a Vi in. deep hole in the bottom of part 0.

The cars are made as shown. Note that parts R and S are glued together and the axle hole drilled through all three pieces. The IV* in. diameter by ³/> in. thick wheels (with Vi in. diameter axle hole) can be ordered from The Toymaker Supply Company, 2907 Lake Forest Road, Tahoe City, CA 95730. A package of 36 is $4.50, postpaid. Order part number W1636.

Part W, the peg, can be lathe-turned or ordered from the Toymaker Supply Company. It's part number PR216 and a package of 16 pieces is $1.50 postpaid.

Once all parts have been assembled, the entire toy can be given a final sanding, taking special care to round over all sharp edges and corners. No final finish is necessary. \\wj