Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-2, страница 17

Restoring Antiques

by John W. Olson

More Hope For The Hopeless Cases

Last issue, in this column, I talked about some of the techniques I use when restoring pieces that are in a serious state of disrepair. These are the so-called "hopeless cases" that are often considered beyond rehabilitation. Yet I've found many times, with patience and care, these pieces can be given new life. In this issue I continue with the discussion.

After reassembly, carefully inspect the piece for rough or splintered edges. A good sanding using 80 - 100 grit aluminum oxide paper should remove most of the serious problem areas. Carefully round the corners so that there is a uniformity that does not detract from the general appearance. Round all the corners to some degree, but unless splintered or battered, do not round to more than a 1/16 in. to Vs in. radius. Rough splintered and battered corners should be rounded as needed to remove the defects but, generally speaking, any defect that requires more than a Vi in. to ³/s in. radius should be repaired. Rounding the corners will not only improve the general appearance but will also aid in the final finishing process. When paint, varnish and other clear finishes are applied, they tend to roll right off a clean, sharp corner so that the bare wood shows through .

Most unsightly scratches, shallow gouges and scars can be removed (or minimized) by sanding. On flat surfaces try to taper out the edges of the sanded areas that are below the level of the surrounding surfaces. If done right, the sanded area should blend nearly imperceptibly into the adjacent area.

To check, observe the surface first from one side and then the other. Place your eye above, and then on the opposite side from the light source. Tilt the surface from side-to-side to change the angle at which the light strikes the surface. Try to do this in sunlight, although electric light can also be used. Fluorescent works somewhat better than incandescent. Careful checking in this way will make it easier to to find small defects and uneveness that is not easily seen on first glance. Res and until an acceptable surface is obtained.

Those really deep gouges and splintered areas will require patching. However, intermediate and many less battered areas can be lifted by steaming if no material is missing. A hot iron and a wet rag are the only tools needed. A piece of sandpaper will aid in those areas covered with paint or varnish, although hot steam is a very good paint remover. Let the iron get hot, then lay the wet rag over the dented area and apply the iron. As the steam penetrates the wood it causes the crushed wood fibers to swell and lift the surface of the dent so that it is level or above the surrounding areas. If the area being treated is covered with thick paint or other finish the steam will generally lift this finish. Some finishes are somewhat steam resistant and may have to be scraped off with a scraper, single edge razor blade or perhaps a knife blade. After the finish has been removed, the steam will penetrate and cause the wood fibers to swell.

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