Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-4, страница 15

a very sudden and corrosive action on aluminum. For this reason, use only heavy plastic, stainless steel or enameled iron as a container for remover made from lye.

The wood must be further treated with a mild solution of vinegar in water and reflushed before being refinished. Some species of wood, especially the oaks and related woods, will turn black when treated with lye. If this is objectionable, their original color can be restored by bleaching with a saturated solution of oxalic acid. This chemical is available in nearly all paint stores. A saturated solution is prepared by dissolving the oxalic acid crystals in water until it will accept no more. Swab this solution on the wooden surface generously and let stand for some time. Again, this solution will work better if it is hot.

If, after twenty or thirty minutes, some dark spots still remain, you can treat them with regular household bleach applied on top of the oxalic acid solution. The ensuing chemical reaction produces nascent chlorine. This is a powerful bleach and a very corrosive agent. Be careful. Stand back and take care not to breathe any of the fumes that rise as the bleach is applied. Purex, Clorox or any other household bleaches sold in liquid form can be used. They all contain essentially the same ingredients in varying amounts. Again, the surface must be thoroughly flushed and allowed to dry before it is refinished.

Trisodium phosphate (TSP) is another common chemical compound (available at most hardware stores) that can be used as a paint and varnish remover for many finishes. This is the washing compound used by nearly all painting contractors to prepare old, dirty, greasy surfaces for repainting. A hot, saturated solution of TSP will remove most finishes if they are not too thick. Apply the hot solution with a mop or a rag swab and allow to stand for thirty minutes or so, then scrape off the softened finish with a scraper, putty knife or coarse steel wool. TSP is almost as corrosive as lye, so the same safety precautions should be observed while using it. Should you wish to apply it to a large vertical surface such as a wall, a reasonable amount of starch, whiting or flour may be used to thicken the solution to a jelly-like consistency to make it adhere better.

You can also make a hydrocarbon-based paint remover from toluol, acetone, and denatured alcohol. All three can be found in any paint store. Mix two parts toluol, one part acetone, one part denatured alcohol and one-eighth part paraffin wax (old-fashion sealing wax which can be bought at the grocery store). All of the ingredients are highly flammable so be very careful when mixing and using them. You will find that the wax will go into solution more easily in a liquid form. It can be easily melted, just be careful not to spill it on a hot surface. Also, to reduce the danger of flashback, be sure to pour it into the other ingredients (already mixed) at a safe distance from the source of heat used to melt the paraffin. Flow it onto the surface to be cleaned, don't use a brush. Allow it to soak in for twenty minutes or so, then test for softness. If the finish isn't softened through to the underlying wood, apply more remover and let stand another twenty minutes. When the finish is soft and can be easily scraped to bare wood, it can be removed. Use a paint scraper and steel wool. Cracks and crevices can be cleaned with a stiff bristle brush as described in the May/June issue. Dry with lacquer thinner and alcohol mixed about half and half (a little heavy on the lacquer thinner works best). This method will not raise the grain of the wood and if you have been careful when scraping the surface, you will need only a light sanding with fine paper before refmishing.

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