Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-4, страница 21

Woodworker

FIG. -2.

The flexibility of the material you are working with, its thickness, and the width of the saw kerfs, are all factors that will effect any kerf bending project. As a rule of thumb, however, kerfs may not be cut wider than V* in. or the "curve" will in fact become a series of flat sections joined at angles to each other.

The thinner the individual kerfs are, the more kerfs will be needed to form a specific curve. If an especially wide arc is needed, you may either cut very thin kerfs, spaced far apart, or increase the thickness of the stock (Fig. 3). Achieving the desired curve through kerf bending is something like baking a cake: the right combination of ingredients — that is, kerf size, distance between kerfs, and thickness of stock — will result in the right curve.

FIG, 3

Several other factors are also important in kerf bending: the type of wood and the thickness of the material that is left when the kerfs are cut. There are no hard and fast rules here. Most experts agree that the kerfs should be cut so the remaining stock is no less than 1/16 in. thick. Depending on the particular character of the wood, however, the thickness may go as high as V* in. Generally speaking, hardwoods such as oak will require 1/16 in., while plywoods and softer woods can be kerfed to within '/« in. of the outside surface. Only the most flexible woods such as willow, hickory and black locust can be kerfed so that a full V* in. of material remains.

To simplify cutting the kerfs, you may wish to build a jig, as shown in Fig. 4. The jig is in fact no more than a guide board with a locating pin, attached to the table saw miter gauge. Position the pin at a distance from the

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