Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-5, страница 23

Woodworker

Special Techniques

Making Specialty Moldings with the Table Saw and Scratch Beader

Moldings are an important element in woodworking. The origins of the molding plane can be traced some 2,000 years back to ancient Rome. From the latter half of the 19th and well into the 20th century, multiple molding planes, such as the classic "Stanley 45" (so named because of its 45 different blades) were the favorites of woodworkers. Today, of course, carbide tipped router bits and molding cutters can easily reproduce most common moldings.

Specialty moldings that cannot be reproduced with commercially available cutters are often called for in woodworking, however. From broad coves to intricate step cuts and even fine beads, practically any molding imaginable can be cut with either the table saw or scratch beader. In fact many veteran woodworkers actually prefer designing their own moldings to compliment a particular piece.

TABLESAWN MOLDINGS

There are several techniques for making tablesawn moldings. The most common technique involves passing the stock through the saw blade with the stock set at a given angle, instead of parallel, to the blade. Depending on the specific angle, this method can be used to create anything from wide circular cross-sections to an extremely narrow elliptical cove molding. If, for instance, the stock is passed through the blade at a direct right angle, the cove will be identical to the saw blade's radius. Substituting a smaller saw blade will result in a smaller radius. An adjustable-angle fence (Fig. 1) is a useful device that will enable you to accurately reproduce a wide

range of cove moldings. The adjustable-angle fence is simply clamped onto the regular tablesaw fence.

The secret in cutting tablesawn cove moldings is patience. The moldings must be cut gradually by repeated passes over the saw blade. Never attempt to force the work or complete the cut with a single pass. Most experts recommend setting the blade height so that each pass will cut away between 1/16 to 1/8 in. of material.

It is a good idea to sketch the desired profile on the end of the stock. When the blade is almost to the line, set the blade height so that the final passes will only cut away about 1/32 of an inch. On the final pass, send the stock through slowly. This will result in a smooth surface requiring less sanding and finish preparation. If you intend to make a quantity of tablesawn cove moldings, you might do well to consider purchasing a 60 tooth carbide combination blade. This blade will leave a surface that requires almost no finish preparation.

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