Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-5, страница 20

Woodworker

SHARPENING A BLADE IS EASY IF YOU HOLLOW GRIND IT FIRST WITH THIS RIMA GRINDING JIG *WJ3

Perfect hollow ground bevels on blades to 214* wide, aluminum construction, brass screws, nylon washers and u ret h arte no-slip clamp surface,

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With this jig, the bottom lip holds the tools at I he same bevel at all times. By using a light louch and sliding the jig from side to side, you will find thai Ihe tool will not overheat and

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HONING

You can hone 1*32" to 1/16" from the cutting edge of a blade, but it is rather difficult to hone Ihe whole bevel. Therefore you should hollow grind the blade and then just touch or hone it on your oil or water stone.

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This ] ig is not made to grind gouges, scissors or knives. But it does an excellent job on chisels, plane irons etc. to2'/i" wide.

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Beginning Woodworker (cont'd)

you can mark with a pencil a line indicating the profile of the leg along the face of the brace. If you held the piece correctly, that line should be fairly accurate for cutting the angle.

Putting the top into place comes next. Here you may want to use screws for securing parts F to the cross members and side rails, but nails will work. I would put two nails in at each of the four points of contact with the cross members and rails.

Before attaching the hardboard top, check the surface of the top boards with a straight edge at least two feet long. Even the best 2 x 4's may not leave a truly flat surface, and now is the time to find that out. If you can see light under the straight edge or if it rocks back and forth, you should plane off the high spots. A jack plane will do the job, and it's a good introduction to this tool. But first you will have to countersink those nail heads at least '/« in. below the surface of the boards so the plane iron doesn't hit them.

What is left is the shelf and top surface. Finishing nails, I in. long, will hold them secure. If the shelf is a bit too wide to slide in between the legs, the jack plane can be used to trim an edge. For the top, the nails should be sunk with a nail set at least '/$ in. below the surface. This measure will keep the steel of plane blades and chisels from getting nicked. For both pieces, make sure the smooth side of the hardboard is up.

As you get more involved in woodworking, you will find a greater need for clamping devices. A bench vise is a good investment, and one attached to the front and to one side would be useful. What will have to be done, though, is to remove a portion of the top front rail to accommodate the vise's spindles and screw. This can be done, if the top has already been attached, with a bit brace and a sizeable auger bit. Overlap the holes slightly and remove the excess with the chisel.

Many hardware stores carry bench vises, but if you cannot find one, you can purchase a fairly decent vise from Fine Tool Shops, Inc. for about S20. Order number 300-0165. A toll-free number is 1-800-243-1037. This one will fit nicely to your now 1% in. thick top and is held with screws. That set of screwdrivers you should have bought will come in handy here.

But to me a vise on the end of the bench is just as useful. Called a tail vise, it can hold a board fiat along the bench length. For this, a sliding "doe" must be incorporated into the

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