Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-6, страница 16

Wood Moisture Meters

Pocket-Size

MINI

LIGNO

$110

Inci Case. Batteries, and Pins for ⁵<V' and Measuring DepSh. Size: 1"x 2V* 5¹'?

High quality moisture tester for the serious hobbyist or the professional woodworker:

Moisture range 6-20^a = . mdrC3?es 1 steos Battery sale on otf swilch between pms Portable wilh protective cap over pins Rugged case m high impact plastic Handy snap® tor convenient use For umber veneer 'iberb»ds

Call loll free 800-227-2105

Free brochures on line ol moisture meters I range 4-30 V 4-60=0) and acces scries to monitor air and J kiln drying available

ignomat

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Tel: BOO-227-2105 503-257-8957

FREE CATALOG

THE EXTRAORDINARY SCREWDRIVER AND SCREWS

This exciting product-THE SQUARE HEAD—is now available to woodworkers at all levels of skill.

Used for years by the finest furniture manufacturers. It makes the Phillips and slot heads obsolete.

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for the craftsman who seeks the ultimate in Woodworking Joinery

INTRODUCING

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(STRONG ) TOOL DESIGN

20425 Beatrice, Dept. WJ, Livonia, Michigan 48152

Restoring Antiques

Preparing For The Final Finish

by John W. Olson

I'm sure that all woodcrafters, at one time or another, have been disappointed with a final finish that they applied to a painstakingly restored piece. It can be discouraging, to say the least, especially when you've spent hours stripping an old finish, regiuing loose joints, and patching unsightly gouges. All that work goes down the drain when the final finish is a poor one.

in order to get an attractive final finish, the wood must be property prepared before the finish is applied — a fact that many wooderafters overlook. Surface preparation is very important, so be sure to sand the piece thoroughly.

To sand properly, the wood surface must be smoothed in steps, with each step using progressively finer grits of sandpaper. Most planed surfaces are fairly smooth, so the sanding process can usually begin with 100 grit aluminum oxide paper. Once the surface has been sanded with the 100 grit, you can progress through the finer grits: 120, 150, 180, etc.

With soft woods, such as pine, final sanding can be with a 180 or 220 grit paper. Of course, finer grits can be used, but it is a wasted effort to work beyond the limits of the material at hand. Just about all wood species are too soft to be smoothed to the same degree as metal or plastic. However, some hardwoods can be smoothed to 300 or finer grit.

It is most important that you remove any scratches left by sanding with the previous grit. Any scratch that remains will become immediately apparent when the first coat of clear finish is applied. There is no easy way to correct such a problem, except to remove the finish and start all over with sandpaper.

Check repeatedly to make sure all surface defects have been corrected. Examine the surface in reflected light from several angles. Stand on the side opposite the light source. Rotate the piece so that the light will hit it from different sides and different angles. At the same time, run the tips of your fingers over the surface. The marvelously sensitive instruments will often detect small imperfections that you missed before. Don't make preparations to apply the final coat until you are satisfied that the surface is as near perfect as you can make it.

I prefer to apply final finishes with a spray gun, however, a perfectly satisfactory job can be done without one if the woodcrafter uses a lot of concentration, patience and has a good brush. If you plan to use a brush, make sure that it is a really good one. The hallmark of the first class brush is long, soft, split bristles. Good brushes will have bristles that are one third to one half longer than the width of the brush. This rule does not apply to extremes. A very wide brush may have comparatively shorter bristles but should be Song enough to be soft and very flexible. Narrow brushes should also have long, soft flexible bristles, but not so long

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