Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-6, страница 17

should each taper to an almost invisible point. When they are examined closely, it can be seen that each individual bristle is split into two or more ends.

Natural hog bristles that, at one time, were considered the best bristles, are naturally fibrous. Modern technology has made possible fibrillated nylon and other synthetic bristles that are so close in appearance and performance to natural hog bristles that it can be difficult to tell them apart in a good brush. Nylon makes a perfectly acceptable brush for most finishes, however, some of the new two-part finishes contain powerful solvents that are capable of turning nylon (and many other plastic brushes) into an unrecognizable glob of wet plastic. If you use one of these finishes, be sure to read the label and carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Good bristles are not only fibrous, but each bristle also tapers to a point and is long, flexible, and soft. When buying a brush, grasp it at the ferrule and run your fingers downward off the ferrule into the bristles and to the end of the brush. The bristles should feel fairly thick just below the ferrule. A good brush also tapers from the ferrule to the end. The lower part of the brush, called the chisel, is formed by shortening the outside bristles progressively and equally on both sides to form the chisel. A good brush is expensive but it behooves you to buy the best you can possibly afford.

A good brush will last many years if properly cared for, and an important part of proper care is the manner in which you use the brush. Never dip your brush more than halfway into the finish. Try not to have excess material in the brush when working on vertical surfaces. The whole point of these two precautions is to keep the heel of the brush as clean as possible. This pays off by making the brush easier to clean and by preventing contamination of new finishes with old. The solvents in the new finish may be capable of taking dried material in the heel into solution and changing the characteristic of the new material.

Brushes are easy to clean if done before the finish begins to set up. Read the manufacturer's label and follo-w the instructions for cleaning. Generally speaking, hydrocarbon based finishing materials can be cleaned out of brushes with gasoline, paint thinner, kerosene, or commercial brush cleaners. Rinse the brush at least three or four times, or until the last rinse shows no sign of the finish and the brush feels clean and soft. It is good practice to wash the brush in hot soapy water and rinse well before hanging up to dry. Never leave a brush in a can of solvent or finish with the bristles resting on bottom for any length of time. The bristles will bend and take a set which will make the brush less useful in the future. Brushes used for applying lacquer should be cleaned in lacquer thinner. Those used to apply shellac should be rinsed in alcohol and then washed in a strong solution of ammonia in hot water. Lacquer brushes should also be given a final cleaning in hot soapy water.

After the brushes are dry and ready for storage, the bristles (from the ferrule down) should be wrapped in heavy grocery bag type paper. Store in an area that's free of dust and dirt. A drawer or a cabinet would be ideal. Lay the brush flat or hang it by the handle. Most paint brushes have a hole in the handle for hanging and if yours doesn't you can drill one. Between coats, the brush can be hung in a covered can of solvent so that the bristles do not touch bottom. You can also put the brush in a plastic bag and lay it flat on a horizontal surface.

Next issue, I'll talk about the proper way to apply finish with a brush and then get into using the spray gun, \\<vj

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