Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-6, страница 42

Bill Of Materials (All Dimensions Actual)

Bill Of Materials (All Dimensions Actual)

Lighted

Display Pedestal

Contemporary style display pedestals are showing up frequently in furniture showrooms. Perhaps in response to the American fascination with collecting art and antiques, we are seeking better ways to display our most prized possessions.

This lighted display pedestal is ideal for vases, pottery, statuary, or even plants. It's gentle light highlights whatever is on display, and gives the pedestal an added dimension of use as a night light.

The pedestal is easy to build, using V* in. particle board, standard veneers, and V* in. solid stock. To begin, cut a section of % in. particle board, 26 in. long by 38 in. wide, and veneer both sides. Any inexpensive birch or luan mahogany veneer will do for the interior veneer (B). For the exterior veneer (C), however, select a distinctive burl, or crotch veneer in one of the more colorful exotic woods. A broad selection of veneers is available from: Constantine, 2050 Eastchester Road, Bronx, NY 10461.

When the four sides (A) are cut from a single section of veneered particle board, the veneer faces will, of course, not match. Should you choose to purchase matching veneers (cut from the same flitch and sold in consecutive order) it will be necessary to cut out and veneer each pedestal side separately. Our pedestal, featuring book-matched olive ash burl, was fashioned in this manner.

After the four veneered sides have been cut to size, miter them lengthwise, then use the table saw dado-head to cut the V* in. wide by Vi in. deep dadoes to accept the particle board bottom piece (D). The cutouts in each side of part D provide ventilation for any heat that builds inside the pedestal when the light is on. Next, drill a V> in, hole through the bottom to accept an electrical cord and mount the porcelain fixture (I) in place.

After the four sides and bottom have been glued up, cut the V* in. by V* in. rabbets for the edging (G). These rabbets may be cut on the router table, or with the table saw dado-head. The 5/16 in. square edging is purposely oversize, so that it may later be sanded flush.

The pedestal base (E) is V* in, solid stock, mitered and glued up into a simple four-sided box. Resaw V* in. stock to form the trim (H), both top and bottom, and cut the four cleats (F) to fit snugly inside the pedestal, forming a rest for the glass top (J). Note that both the trim and cleats feature mitered corners, and that one side of the base must be notched to accommodate the electrical cord.

The solid stock for parts E, F, G, and H can be almost any hardwood, although the pedestal will look best if you select a wood that contrasts distinctively with the face veneer.

Finally, assemble the various pedestal parts as shown in the illustration, gluing and clamping all mating surfaces. You will note that the cleats are inset Vi in. below the pedestal top, enabling the trim to serve as a border around the glass. This will help prevent objects that are displayed from sliding off the pedestal. The frosted glass top, which rests on four felt dots positioned in the cleat corners, should be cut slightly undersize.

The lighted feature of the pedestal is an option, and can be eliminated if it is not desired. Should you include the light, however, it is a good idea to install a line switch in the cord. For safety's sake, it's best to use a bulb no bigger than 25 watt.

The pedestal may either be finished with penetrating oil or, if you desire a gloss finish, with lacquer. NXwJ