Woodworker's Journal 1985-9-1, страница 17

Bowed Lumber

Another problem with lumber surfaces is bowing. This is a curving of the board along its length rather than across its width, and again it is impervious to being corrected with a thickness planer. You can usually spot bowing by sighting along the length of the board.

Place the board so that the bow is facing up. This lessens the tendency for the board to rock. Use a jack plane to remove wood from the middle of the board, checking along the length with a straight edge longer than the board. When that side is flat, turn the board over and remove more wood from the ends than from the middle (Fig. 2).

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Twisted Lumber

A problem I often come across is a board that has twisted owing to the way the tree grew. There are three ways to determine whether a board is twisted or "in wind." One is by sighting down the face of the board. Another is by placing a steel rule diagonally from corner to corner. In one direction it will touch the corners but not the middle. In the other direction it will touch the middle but not the corners. The third way is by placing two pieces of scrap wood of the same thickness across the board at either end then looking down the board to see if the sticks are parallel (Fig. 3). Sighting along an edge, however, will not indicate a twist, for that edge may be perfectly straight.

A board in wind is best clamped so that a high corner is nearest you. Then plane from one high corner to the op-

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posite one. When the board is finally flat on both faces, plane along the grain to remove previous planing ridges. After both faces of a board have been surfaced flat, the next step is to plane the edges fiat and square to the faces.

Planing an Edge

A great deal of cabinetmaking has to do with joining boards for any number of projects from table tops to wall units. My very first project involved this operation. But I, as many woodworkers will do, started with pine boards the edges of which came already squared, making edge-gluing a simple process. My first real appreciation of hand planing did not come until some years into woodworking when I was building a 3 x 5 foot mahogany desk. For the top I had decided on joining together two 18 in. wide boards. Having purchased by then a small jointer, I figured it would be fairly easy to square the boards' edges. What resulted was anything but square as the large boards jumped up and down on the jointer bed and rocked back and forth. When pushed together, the boards showed enormous gaps between their edges.

What I decided to learn from then on was how to use hand planes, though not in place of a jointer, but to give the machine an easier time of squaring the edges of boards.

For a board that does not have a straight edge, I clamp it up in my (continued on next page)

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