Woodworker's Journal 1985-9-5, страница 62

Woodworker

EASY-TO-MAKE G/ETS, TOYS & ACCESSORIES

HooV shelves can Ik- as basic as boards laid across I'iMt rcte blocks, or slacks of old apple crates. Bui ii \<m'd like something dial's both simple and i. mi itie)i a bit more thoughi is required. Our easy-build imok ^helves combine several important features—simple design, low cost, and knock-down capability.

\ Flexible Design

We show a 4-shelf unit with 3 ft. long shelves, bui using the same basic concept, you can build a unit of jusi about .my length, height or shell w idth. We've seen units sized to I ill an entire wall, that quickly turn a room inio a mini library. For a longer unit, just add central legs, spaced no more than about 3 ft. apart. Although our shelf unit has evenly spaced shelves, and is sized for hardcover books, you can custom-size ihe shell" w idth and spacing lor just about any purpose—from oversize photo albums or an encyclopedia set, to paperbacks. However, if your unil height exceeds aboui 5 ft., it 's a good idea io anchor the top of the shelf" unit lo the wall wiih a few angle brackets, to avoid any possibility of it tipping over

Cut Parts to Size

The What To Buy illustration shows exacllj what you'll need to buy to build the shelf in the photo. The four legs (A) are obtained from two 8 foot lengths of I'/x in. diameter closet pole. The four shelves (B i can be crosscut from a V-i in. pine board measuring 11 '/-< in. w ide by 12 ft. long (don't worrj about the length lost from the saw kerfs—it won't be missed). The actual thickness of 7-t stock is about I'/«in.

The fool and cleat parts (C". D tare obtained from a single -V* in. thick board measuring 4'/i in. wide b> 4 ft. long. As illustrated, crosscut the board into two 24 m. lengths, then glue up the two halves in a slack lamination. Rip the laminated board down the center, crosscut to separate the cleat and foot parts, then make rips and crosscuts to establish final sizes. Bui don't cut the bevels on the feel or cleats yet. Temporarily clamp the feel back together as indicated lo bore the U in. diameter holes establishing the ends of the foot reveal. Use a jigsaw or band saw to remove the waste between the holes, then smooth ihe cut line w ith files and sandpaper. A 1 in. diameter by 3 ft. long dowel will be more than enough io yield the shelf pins <E>.

ih ill hit .mil sel ilu* culler to equal your closet rod diameter.

I or ih- holes in the I'ect and cleats, locale the hole center point Hi mi l.iinp ilu- part lo the drill press lable before making each In ik Note ili.it the tm>i holes are drilled I in. deep, and ihe cli mi hull ■ .in .tn deep. Use a simple V-block jig to hold ihe kvs - ink .. ii bore ihe '/- in. diameter shell" pin holes (Figure 21 i ,i\ i>iii ih. hole locations on one leg. then transfer liie marks to itv line, remaining legs. Slide the leg along the V-block. drilling the holes at the index poinls.

Drill the Holes

With your parts cut to size, next bore the holes in ihe shelves, feet and cleats tor the legs, and in the legs for the shelf pins. A pair of simple jigs come in handy for making the larger I'soles. For the holes in the shelves, make a right-angle jig, as shown in Figure I, then clamp the jig to the drill press so the bit center point is 2 in. from the jig legs. A Forstner bit is the best type of hit for boring ihe shell" holes, since il cuts smooth and clean, w iih little tearout. However, check that the hole size w ill be right lor the closet rod that you purchased. Closet rod can vary considerably from ihe specified diameter, and since the shelf assembly is a friction fit. you should avoid sloppy, oversize holes II your closet rod is off-size, consider using an adjustable

62

Finishing I p

Ml ili.ii leti is to cut the bevels on the fool and cleat parts, cli.imtei th< edges of these parts and the shelves, and apply a finish Ihe pans should be finished before ihe shelves are assembled We used Minwax's Puritan Pine stain, and followed with i vei.il coals of penetrating oil.

lo .issemhlc the bookshelf, mount the legs to ihe feci, then slide ilk* shelves on one by one. adding the pins to provide the tlirre upper shelves w ith support. Finally, press the cleats into place ovet the teg ends. In use. you'll find that the more luniks and weight—that are added lo the shelves, ihe sturdier the ,i i inblv becomes. Since no glue is used, ihe bookshelf can K qiin klv knocked down for moving or storage. iVJi

The Woodworker's Jounu!