Woodworker's Journal 1993-17-1, страница 47

to the vise end of the bench top. making sure the notch in the top plate is indexed properly to the bench stop cutout in the top. Although you could use both glue and screws, if you use only screws, then you'll be able to knock down the bench at some future date, for moving or whatever. If you plan on knocking the bench down on a frequent basis—such as for craft shows—then use threaded inserts (in the top) and bolls (through the top plates) instead.

Next, drill the various holt holes through the pedestals and stretcher end plates, boll the stretcher assembly to both the left and right-side pedestals, and then mount the right-side pedestal to

the bench top. Lastly, fil the bench stop through the mortise in the bench lop, then inserl (he hanger bolt (N( that together with the wing nut and washer serves as a lock for the stop. Finish: MDF should not be left unfinished. It's best lo cover all surfaces w ith some type of protective coating, such as paint or polyurcthane. By sealing all surfaces, even if the bench is placed in a moist area—such as a damp basement— it won't wick up the moisture. If there's one negative to using MDF, it's that you can't let MDF come into contact with moisture—the two just don't mix. One added bonus of a protective coating is that you won't need lo worry about the

inevitable spills—of finish, stain, honing oil or whatever—that all benches are subjected to. sooner or later. Vise Mounting: The solid core area in the bench lop w ill enable you to mount a vise by eilher lag bolting from the bottom, or countersinking for bolt heads in the top. Obviously, we've only layed oul our core for a single vise. If you plan on adding a second vise at some later date, be sure to add solid core strips al the second vise mounting area. It's important to make these decisions before your make the T-box top, since it's impossible lo add extra core strips later on. should you change your mind.

With so many different styles of workbenches oul there, it's hard For the average woodworker to choose what's best. If money was no object, we'd probably all opt for Ihe fanciest, prettiest bench available. But if we stopped and asked ourselves the question "Is the most expensive bench I can buy the best bench to work on?" we mighl be surprised at the answer.

First, we should consider what's most important in a bench. The answer, of course, should he "the top." It should be strong enough so there's no sag. durable enough lo stand up to pounding, abuse and the pressure of clamping work-pieces to it. and it must be flat. We work hard to get furniture and cabinet parts flat and straight, and frying to do work and assemble furniture that's square and true on a benchtop that's bowed or twisled is a virtual impossibility.

Furthermore, all the benchtop's edges should be straighi. all corners square, and the bench should have a slop to keep pieces from sliding off as we plane or sand. The underframe—the purpose of which is to support the lop securely at a given height—should be open enough to allow for getting bar clamps under the top, which makes it easy to clamp pieces to the side of the bench. Finally, the bench should have at least one—or better yet two—good vises.

Beyond the above criteria, there are two more things to consider—size and height. As for size, most of us tend to use the Texas theory: The bigger the better. But. experience shows that the typical Texas-sized bench gets crowded with

tools that should have been put away, or scraps thai should have been thrown away, and w hen the time comes lo get busy, there we are clearing off a little work area around Ihe vise. For this reason. I prefer a smaller bench.

With respcct to height, keep in mind that it s next to impossible lo work comfortably on a bench dial's too high.

We can always bend our knees a bit or lean over a lower bench, bul most of us are done growing. For the average person. the 34 in. height show n should be just fine, but you should make adjustments accordingly if you are tall or short.

Now thai we've looked at what

IS A BIG TICKET BENCH BETTER?

By Ed Speas

makes a good bench, let's compare the T-box workbench to a solid wood bench. Initially, both tops can be made equally flat, but by virtue of its solid wood nature (remember, wood moves) the solid wood top Xr^ ma\ not long remain flat. The T-b<ix

top. on the other hand, remains forever stable. If you make it flat, it will stay that w ay.

But let's noi be blind to beauty, That luscious leak or mutlinga bench will make your workshop look just great. Visitors will swoon. Surely, a master craftsman must be at work here, they'll sigh.

In the end. ii all comes down to one simple question. Ask yourself: "Would I rather build pretty furniture on an accurate bench, or build inaccurate furniture on a pretty bench?" Believe me...the more you work on a T-box bench, the prettier it gets.

January/February l^lW

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