Woodworker's Journal 1993-17-2, страница 53
[he lop and base to the same overall size (s/8 in. by 8 in. by 9 in.), then set up the router table with a pair of stops, and using the same in. straight cutter that you used to establish the grooves in the facings, make the blind groove in the top for the Plexiglass. Note that the length of this blind groove must be at least 7'/k in.—the same as the width of the Plexiglass. However, to insure an easy fit. it's best to make the groove a bit longer. This way. you'll also avoid having to square up the groove ends with an in. chisel, a tool most folks aren't likely to have. Next, replace the straight cutter with a in. radius Roman ogee router bit, cut the drawer face (K) to size (the '/- in. thickness can be easily resaw n from 'A in. stock), and mold the ogee profile on the top. base and on the drawer face. You can screw the base in place now. Also, drill, countersink and counterbore for the four screws that mount the top, but leave it off for now. Now is a good time to cut and test-fit the Plexiglas <P>. Plexiglas is available at most building supply ccnters. but you may already have a piece this small kicking around your shop. After die Plexiglas is cut lo size, use a file to knock the sharp edges off. Next up is making the drawer box, which consists of the drawer sides <H), front and back (I) and bottom (J). Our drawer features a rabheted drawer box construction, with an applied face. Cut the drawer sides, front and back to the dimensions shown, establish the 7it> in. deep b\ 7* in. wide rabbets on the ends of the drawer front and back, cut the 7J in. wide by 7* in. deep grooves for ihe bottom, then glue and assemble ihe drawer box. Using a ball-bearing guided chamfering bit in your router, set for a Vio in. deep cut. establish the chamfer on the sides and back of the drawer box. I :Mng some doublcstick tape to temporarily hold the face in place on the drawer box, slide the drawer box into the opening to check that the overhang of the drawer face is about even all around on the facings. When the alignment is good, glue and clamp the drawer face in place. Turn the knob (L) using our full-size pattern (or purchase a knob at your local hardware store) and mount it. Now is a good time lo apply a finish lo the display box and drawer. We used a brush-on water-based lacquer, which is easy to apply and dries quickly, with little odor (a handy feature when you are working indoors). When the finish is dry. add a stick-on cork doi (the same as the four stick-on dots that serve as feet) centered on the lower edge of the drawer back. This dot plays a dual role: it acts as a stop to prevent the drawer from being pulled all the way out and it serves to keep the drawer level, compensating for the 1/16 in. lip on the lower facing. Decorating If you are planning to use your display box to show off a miniature room setting, you'll at least want to include a few basics—such as the wallboard (M>, flooring iN) and baseboard (O). Our wallboard is just a thin stiff cardboard painted with a flat white wall paint. You could wallpaper over the wallboard. or add just about any other wall treatment (in miniature, of course) that you would find on a real home. We cut the flooring and baseboard from contrasting woods (the floor is walnut, the baseboard is pine), but you can buy similar items. If you make these yourself, be sure to use a zero-clearance insert in your saw, and push sticks, to keep your fingers well away from the blade. If you are really interested in miniatures, a miniature table saw. such as the unii made by Dremel. is the logical way to go. t.VJi March/April 1993 Please circle No. 8 on the Reader Sen il e Card 53 |
