Woodworker's Journal 1993-17-2, страница 54
Drying Rack Clever fold-up rack mounts just about anywhere This practical project can be put to good use in almost any laundry room, mud room or kitchen. Use it to dry clothes, towels, even flowers or herbs. Ours is made from ash, but oak, maple, birch and pine are other good choices. Prepare the Stock You'll need 5A in. thick slock for the upper rail (A), shelf (B). lower rail (C), two stiles (D), and the two sides (E). We used clear stock, although boards with a few small, tight knots are perfectly suitable. The dozen long stretchers (F) and four short stretchers (Gl are made from '/z in-thick stock. A board that measures at least 5 in. wide and 40 in. long will provide enough material for all the stretcher parts. It's best to use clear stock here, as the stretchers are relatively small. A knot in the wrong location might weaken a stretcher enough to cause it to break under the weight of several wet bath towels. We used '/; in. diameter birch dowel stock for the long dowel ill) and the 11 short dowels (I). Be a little choosy when selecting the dowels at your hardware store. You'll want them to be reasonably straight and free from small knots that sometimes show up. Also, try lo avoid those thai are badly out of round. Now, except for the long and short dowels, cut all the parts to the dimensions shown in ihe Bill of Materials. (The dowels will be cut to length later, after the rack has been tesl assembled. > Before starting, though, check your table saw, along with the rip fence and miter gauge, as you'll want all the cuts to be square. Make the Upper Rail and Shelf The upper rail and the shelf can be tackled first. You'll note that these parts are almost identical. They differ only in thai the upper rail is curved at the lower corners. Transfer the profiles of these parts from the grid pattern to the stock, then cut them out with the band saw. Once cut. sand the sawn edges smooth. If you have one, a disk sander will come in handy here. We added a slight chamfer (aboui 7if< in. > along the long curve of each part. As shown m Ihe exploded view, the chamfer ends al the "notch" in the curve. You can do this with a hand plane or. as we did, w ith a router table equipped with a 4,*i degree chamfering bit. Since the upper rail mounts against the wall, there is no need to chamfer the curve on the back of this part. Make the Sides Lay out and mark the location of the two. 74 in. wide by 2 in. long, notches on the back edge of each side. We made the V> in. deep cut first, using the table saw. The slock was supported by the miter gauge as it passed, on edge, through the blade. The 2 in. long leg of the notch was cut with the band saw. If you have one, use a wide hand saw blade here (3/4 in. is 54 The Woodworker's Journal |
