Woodworker's Journal 1994-18-1, страница 17

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required, on a framed cabinet door, for instance. Once the machine is accurately set up. it takes only minutes to make cuts on numerous parts. If you don't have a band saw. lake heart—the work isn't all lhal much slower when done with a hacksaw. I'll talk about the basic corner joint lirsi. then a basic intermediate joint, and then comment on a few variations.

Laying Out the Joints

I lay out bridle joints almost exactly as I do standard mortise-and-tenons. In general. ihe lenon is slightly more than one-third the thickness of ihe rail and it extends across the rail's full width. (Sometimes I cut a small shoulder on the rail's inside edge, lo cover any bruises or chip-outs incurred when chiseling out

ihe end of the mortise.) As with most joinery, success depends on starting w ith flat, square stock Make sure to mill several pieces of scrap lo the same width and thickness as the rails and stiles— you'll need them lo test machine setups.

I start ihe layout by knifing ihe tenon shoulders, as shown in photos A through D. making the tenon slightly longer than the width of the stile. Next, knife or pencil the width of the tenon on the edges of the stile. Then incise the check lines for both mortise and lenon w ilh a mortise gauge. (If you use an ordinary marking gauge, remember to gauge from the working face of each piece for boih lines.) Gauge the cheeks on your scrap te->i pieces, loo. lo use when setting up the band saw .

Photos A, li, C and I): Lay out a corner bridle joint by knifing the tenon shoulders on the faces of the rails (A) and the width of the mortise on the edges of the stiles (B); after marking the edge, square the line across. Mark the second of each pair of rails and stiles front the first (C). Then scribe the cheeks on rails and stiles with a mortise gauge (D).

At the Band Saw

Before doing anything else, make sure your band saw is in gotnl running order—-drive belts tensioned. wheels aligned, blade tensioned and tracking

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