Woodworker's Journal 2006-30-5, страница 48

practice, even with the best of the elongated tool-rests, I find it impossible to turn a platter or large bowl of any size larger than the original inboard capacity. Also, the location of the on/off switches on five of the lathes require that you reach around and over the spinning wood to hit the off switch, which is dangerous.

If those considerations aren't enough, I have concerns about the ability of the elongated tool-rests to withstand even moderate dig-ins. Dig-ins happen to every turner. When the tool-rest extends way beyond the bed of the lathe, the force on the tool-rest, exerted from dig-ins, increases dramatically.

Furthermore, if that weren't enough, having the weight of a heavy, spinning object hanging over the side of the lathe increases the instability of the lathe itself. The wide stance of most lathe stands isn't enough to compensate for the weight shift to one side. My advice: If you consistently turn large chunks of wood, plan to buy a large-capacity lathe.

That said, one clear advantage to a lathe with a swivel headstock is the ability to turn a bowl without leaning over the bed of the lathe. For those with back trouble, this might be ideal. But you could also buy a lathe that has a headstock that slides to the end of the bed. A tool-rest assembly can be attached to the end of the lathe. The Powermatic is one such lathe.

Lowdown About Lathe Stands

The stand that the bed of the lathe sits on is where the "rubber meets the road," so to speak. It's crucial to have a stand designed to limit vibration — a nagging problem for wood lathes. Too much vibration can keep even good turners from achieving clean, consistent cuts. Here are three things to consider when looking for a sturdy, stable stand: weight, stance and design.

Tool Review continues on page 70 ...

Woodworker's Journal October 2006 48