Woodworker's Journal 2008-32-4, страница 35

Once you near the line, it's time to clean up the vertical wall. Setting the blade flush as we did at the outset will not give a clean vertical wall. In fact, you never try to cut both walls at once. This sloping "vertical" wall is just as it should be. You now turn the body of the plane horizontal and cut the vertical wall.

Making a Long-grain Rabbet with a Shoulder Plane

Mark out the rabbet on both

edges with the cutting gauge. The gauge is prone to wander as it encounters different densities of tissue. The solution is to push the fence quite hard into the workpiece and to move the gauge more slowly. This step is critical — if an error occurs at this point in the process, it is difficult to correct. Take the time required to mark out the rabbets properly.

Plane with the grain and make the first few passes with the blade set fine. The grip is the same when cutting with the grain or across it.

As with other wood-shaping tasks, cutting with the grain is much easier than cutting across the grain. But don't lose concentration; full control is still required.

Once you have established a wall that acts as a fence, you can increase the depth of cut and, in relative terms, "hog it off."

Basic end-grain and long-grain rabbets — clean and accurate.

To make this cut, hold the plane in the right hand. (The view of the photo is from the top of the board looking down.) The left hand acts as a steady in contact with the workpiece. Once you have removed the bulk of the waste, set the blade to remove fine shavings. Planing

down to the line and getting a right angular corner normally requires alternately removing a shaving or two from the vertical face and the horizontal face.

Woodworker's Journal August 2008

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