Woodworker's Journal 2009-33-1, страница 47
A "floating" platform conceals this bed's solid foundation. precise woodworking that has to fall into place during the assembly process. Set the platform on the base so initially it overhangs the head end of the base about 8 inches. Align and attach the headboard supports. Align and screw the platform to the base, and then attach the headboards. the finished lengths were perfect. Before making the cuts, I placed a 3/4" spacer under the shorter inside edging piece to bring its height up equal to the outside edging. That way I could make the cuts face-up to reduce tearout. Cut the frame pieces 11 through 18 to size plus 1/4" longer. Miter the ends, but leave the pieces long. Rout the l/2"-deep FlipBolt cavities in the ends of the frame plywood pieces 11 and 12. Use the manufacturer's template and a short-top bearing flush-trim bit or a template guide bushing and straight bit for the routing. Glue and clamp the frame edging pieces to the frame plywood pieces. Make the headboard cleat (piece 19), attach all the cleats, and miter-cut the ends to final size as described earlier. Assemble the frame upside down on your floor. Cut the plywood (pieces 20) to fit in the assembled frame. Mark the plywood faces up/down, right/left, head/foot, and outside edge as shown in the Drawings. Lay out and drill the screw holes and cut the biscuit grooves as shown in the drawing on page 45. Screw the plywood pieces to the frame and round over the bottom edges. Next, you can flip the platform over, and set it on sawhorses. Round over the top edges and corners. Drill the lag bolt and #14 screw clearance holes through the frame at the head. Make the fill blocks (pieces 21) now, but don't attach them to the platform plywood (using double-stick carpet tape) until you carry out the final bed assembly. Constructing the Headboards Make the headboard supports (pieces 28). Drill the desktop fastener counterbore holes (pieces 29) and rout the rounded-over edges. Cut the headboard plywood (pieces 25) from one sheet so the grain flows smoothly across the headboard faces when the bed is assembled. Leave the plywood pieces about 1" wider and 1" longer than their finished dimensions, and laminate them together to make the two l"-thick panels. That way, you don't have to worry if they slip slightly out of alignment during glue-up. When the glue cures, cut the panels to their finished size, and add the edging (pieces 26 and 27). Miter-cut the edging to hide the end grain. Rout the rounded-over edges. Wrap up construction by aligning and fastening the headboard supports to the platform. Attach the headboards to their supports. Use a 101/2ll-wide spacer to align the headboards parallel to the platform. Finishing Up Disassemble the bed, finish-sand the parts and ease any sharp edges. I used Danish Oil Finish as a topcoat, then added nail-in nylon feet to the bottom edge of the base. While this "floating" bed doesn't really defy the laws of gravity, the effect is convincing. A solid platform will keep it firmly grounded for years to come. Bruce Kieffer is a professional woodworker and a frequent contributor to Woodworker's Journal. Set the platform plywood pieces in the frame. Place spacers under the joint between sheets to keep the edges from sagging. Then screw the plywood to the frame and lean the platform against a wall. Woodworker's Journal February 2009 47 |
