Woodworker's Journal 2009-33-2, страница 52

Notch the front corners of the web frames. The dadoes for the web frames are only 1/8" deep, and they're stopped 3/8" short of the front edges of the partitions. The author used a crosscut blade and guided the work with a miter gauge to cut the notches.

groove-and-stub tenon joints.

Start by making the door frames. Rip and crosscut the rails and stiles to size. Cut the panel grooves, then the stub tenons on the rail ends. You want a snug press fit, not a fit that requires you to hammer the parts together. While (he groove-and-stub tenon is generally acceptable for cabinet doors, I reinforced these joints with loose tenons fit into routed mortises (see Drawings).

Now make the panels. Plane your stock down to 1/2" thick (perhaps a skosh less), and rip and crosscut the panels to size. Under-cut the edges of the inner faces as needed so the panels fit their frame grooves.

Before gluing up the doors, apply finish to the panels. The finish prevents glue from sticking to the panels, which could restrict wood movement. It also prevents unfinished wood from showing when the panels shrink.

Web Frames Hold it Together

Creating and Fitting Drawer Boxes

1 built traditional drawers, with thin sides and backs and solid-wood bottoms fitted into slips. I used dovetails — hall-blind in front, through at the back — although I routed them rather than hand-cutting them. (Tradition only goes so far!)

I wanted the drawers to fit their pockets like pistons in engine cylinders. To achieve that precision, I made the drawers one by one.

Fitting begins as you cut the individual parts.

Top Center Web Frame

Vertical Drawer Divider

(Side View)

_jm- 2" i

Top Center Web Frame

(Top View)

Mortise and Tenon Details

(Front and End Views)

CP

Exploded View

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April 2009 Woodworker's Journal