Woodworker's Journal 2011-35-1, страница 49
-J with some scrap lumber and even go all the way to glue-up as 1 did. It is an odd little joint, and practice never hurt anyone! When 1 had the tops machined, I formed the insert strip by cutting an over-long piece of 1" cherry and then machining it perfectly square in my planer. Glue-up of the table top was not tricky at all (photo at right), but 1 did check to make sure that the two tops were aligned with each other (flat across their width). Once the glue had cured, I used a hand plane to remove the triangle of cherry that protrudes over the flat surfaces ol the table top. Then I cut it to final size. There are a few ways that you might create the rather large chamfer on the edge of the table top, but seeing as 1 had the 45° zero-clearance insert already made, I just did it on my table saw. It worked really well. Wrapping Up the Last Details All <il the component* were now complete, which left just a couple things to do ... first off, you guessed it ... sanding. One nice thing about this little table is that lliere are a lot of flat surfaces, which are easy to sand. One not so nice thing about this table is that there are a lot of curved edges to sand — which are a lot trickier lo do well. I used a combination of spindle sanders and hand sanding on the edges. For the flat surfaces, 1 used my trusty 4 x 24 belt sander and a random-orbit sander. But I always do my final — in this case 320-grit — sanding by hand. I "broke," or gently rounded over, the edges of the pieces during this step. Once the sanding was done, it was time to glue the stretcher in place. This was done with extreme care to avoid breaking off an edge of the through mortise. I cut a temporary brace for the clamp-up that was exactly the distance from shoulder to the shoulder of the stretcher. This allowed me to clamp top and bottom on the leg subassemblies and keep the assembly exactly square. I glued the wedges and tapped them in place, wiped all he excess glue clean with water and sofl ray;. then waited fo he glue to cure. When the glue was dry, 1 trimmed the excess off the wedges and sanded the * - WOODWORKERS L - i I Tmm,nm 1 Country Ptae Tnblc "" A* tenons and wedges flush to the legs. Now it was ready for the finish. Projects From Our Past Rob used a plan from the December 1990 Woodworker's Journal as the starting point for this table. The original plan, and more than 90 other classic plans from the Journals archives, arc now available in downloadable format for $1.00 each. For more details, visit www.wuudworkersjounicil.uum/ulabbius. When gluing up the table top and the cherry inlay strip, it is important to keep the panels in alignment. After a test fitting, the author found that square-head clamps helped to achieve this goal. The author used the fence as a guide on the band saw when slicing the slots to accept the cherry tenon wedges. To work properly, the saw kerf must be slightly smaller in width than the wedges are thick. 1 finished trie table top and the legset separately. My first application was amber shellac mixed three to one with denatured alcohol (right from the can). I wanted the amber color to highlight the lighter grained flecks in the wenge. I paid special attention to the end grain, making sure to seal it well. Then 1 used three coats of sprayed-on shellac from an aerosol can (see Finishing Thoughts on page 74), de-nibbing betwreen coats with #0000 steel wool. I applied a final coat of lacquer from a spray can, because 1 think the lacquer is a little tougher than the shellac. Once the finish had cured, I attached the top to the leg-set with screws, and the table was completed. And I must say that 1 think it turned out well. The dark wenge accented by the cherry lumber looked very sophisticated: equally as attractive, but quite a bit different from, its country pine table origins. Rob Johnstone is the editor in chief of Woodworker's Journal magazine and a shop rat from way back. / Woodworker's Journal February 2011 !JMssbs: BlwSMgs &IFSMM^ Map^tetorMI 49 |
