Woodworker's Journal summer-2009, страница 26

The Trick

The Reaction

Jig for Mitered Corners A Bevel or a Miter?

Miter

slot

key

My old contractor's saw needed help cutting accurate miters, so I designed this jig. Start with a keyed plywood base of 3/4" thick stock. Lower the blade below the table top and make sure the plywood slides smoothly. Raise the blade and cut the side absolutely parallel to the blade. Cut two matching sides to about 48° and glue these to the base, holding their tips to the saw-cut parallel edge. With a steel square, mark a line on the jig at 90° to the blade and add a fence for registering the edges of your stock. Now tilt the blade just a bit until you have a perfect 45° angle for your cuts. Remember to reset the blade to vertical after using the jig.

Carl Allen Oswego, New York

Fence

The "Jig for Mitered Corners" is worded wrong: it should be called the "Jig for Beveled Corners." Everywhere he mentions a miter, it is actually a bevel cut. It does look like the jig would be helpful to use for 45° bevels. I like the issues of y'all's magazine. Most of them have some good stories or furniture plans.

Bernie Campbell Madison Heights, Virginia

WJ Responds: OK, the cuts he's making are bevels — since a bevel is an angle that isn't a right angle. But, since the picture showed Carl Allen's jig cutting a 45 bevel, it's still a jig for mitered joints. Really. Edge joints at any angle besides 45 are beveled joints, but when you put 45 joints together to make a joint, it's mitered. (You can look this up in Ernest Joyce's Encyclopedia of Furniture MakingJ Who said language had to make sense? If it's any comfort to you, we're pretty sure mitered corners do receive a special blessing: why else would the pope use the name for his hat?