Woodworker's Journal summer-2009, страница 29

Form a flat surface on 3ne side of the dowel.

The Reaction

The Trick

Durable Push Stick

I like to make push sticks that not only do their job but also feel comfortable to the hand. This takes a little time and then, sooner or later, you cut the step or notch away and have to make a new one. My new model push stick has a short piece of hardwood dowel with a flattened aspect on its forward surface, as shown below. When it wears down, I just drill out the old dowel and replace it with a new one — a couple of minutes' work.

Ken Collier Spring Valley, California

The Reaction

A Better Pusher

Just read my first copy of the magazine. Ken Collier's push stick can be improved simply by drilling a 1/4" diameter hole all the way through from the 1/2" hole. When the dowel needs replacement, knock it out with a punch or nail. Repeated drilling will ruin the hole.

John Truskowski Plymouth, Michigan

Against the Rails

First, let me say I love your magazine and read it cover to cover each time. I have found it very helpful many times. Paul McKibben said to use fence rails to lift the saw. My Craftsman table saw has a large sticker on the fence rails that states, "Do not lift by the fence rails." I'm sure many other saws state that. We have purchased a wheel kit to move our saw around and push it by its base, not the fence rails.

Bev Polmanteer Eloy, Arizona

Drill a 1/2" hole 1/2"

The Trick

Mobile Saw Base

With this mobile base I can easily move my contractor's table saw around — even down steps or over door thresholds. I use the table saw fence rails wheelbarrow-style so I don't have to bend down. The wheel and axle are from a child's bicycle and the remainder shop scrap. Be sure to engage the wooden "hook" before moving the saw.

Paul McKibben Norcross, Georgia

Notch 2 x 2 for axle

Notch ends of 2 x 4 to fit base

8" bicycle wheel 2 x 4 cut

Pivoting hook cut from 2x4

34 Tricks of the Trade