Creative Woodworks & crafts 1999-04, страница 24

Patterns Located in Full Size Pattern

Section X No. 2! A

by Robert Hlavacek, Sr.

instructions

A word from the designer

This project is made similar to the tropical fish featured in the March, 1998 issue of Creative Woodworks & Crafts. Except for the right pectoral fin and teeth, the entire shark was cut out of one piece of wood.

To paint the shark, I used the Visions AirPainter and thinned Delta Ceramcoat acrylic paint. Here's how it's done.

Rout the edge of the body with the 3/8" roundover bit, making two light passes to prevent chipping. Next, use a finish sander, rocking it over the edge to further round {see Fig. 9).

Draw cut lines on the edge of the tail as shown, and cut out the profile. To do this safely, attach the tail to a block of wood with a couple small dots of hot glue as shown in Fig. 10. Use this technique on the fins that need to be resawn as well. Note: if you don't have access to a band saw, you can leave the tail flat and cut it out of 3/8"-thick wood. The small fins can be resawn on the scroll saw or sanded.

After contouring the tail, draw its profile on the edge of the body. Use the finish sander to thin down and contour the body (see Fig. 11).

Cut the back of the pectoral fin as shown in Fig. 12. Use a 1/2"-Dia. sanding drum with coarse abrasive to sand the area the saw could not reach. Next, contour the front of the pectoral fin so it doesn't look flat. Do not sand the edges too thin to avoid breakage (see Fig. 13).

To get a better fit, cut the tail in half and glue it back together. This will close the saw kerf between the tail and body as shown in Fig. 14. Note the contours of the tail and fins.

Cut and contour

Trace the pattern onto the wood with carbon paper. Draw location marks on the body to facilitate repositioning the fins after they are cut apart (see Fig. 1). Cut out the shark. Turn the body over and tape the mouth template in place. Use an awl to mark the drill centers as shown in Fig. 2. Use a 5/8"-Dia. Forstner bit to drill a series of 1/2" deep holes (see Fig. 3). This will create a recess in which the teeth will be glued later. Be sure to clamp the work to the drill press table. Drill a 9/16"-Dia. hole approximately 1/8" deep for the 14mm glass eye. Note: glass eyes can vary slightly in thickness, drill a hole in scrap wood to determine the proper depth.

Draw location marks for the fins on the edge of the body as shown in Fig. 4. Cut out the body for the right pectoral fin. Tape the left fin to the body, putting tape on both the front and back sides. Sand the edges smooth, then place the body on top of the right fin and trace a new, accurate cut line (see Fig. 5). Cut out the fin, staying just outside the traced line. Drum sand the edge for a nice snug fit as shown in Fig. 6.

Use the hot glue gun to attach a 2 x 4 block 8-1/2" from the tail end of the body (two small dabs are ample). This will create an angle of approximately 15 degrees. Drill a hole at the bottom of each gill slit with the No. 58 bit (see Fig. 7).

Tilt the scroll saw table 15 degrees to the left. Cut the right side of the gill slit, then back the blade up to the entrance hole and cut the left side as shown in Fig. 8.

Glue up the pieces

Spread wax paper on a flat surface and edge glue the fins to the body. I used 5-minute epoxy on this project (see Fig. 15). Do not glue the teeth in place until all painting is completed. Trace the outline of the shark onto the 1/4" plywood backer. Cut the backer about 1/8" within the traced line and at a 15 degree angle toward the back.

Paint and finish

Apply three light coats of white primer and let dry. Sand lightly with 320 grit abrasive. Wipe with the tack cloth and spray one more coat. A Porcupine Pad placed on a turntable makes a great painting tool (see

on page 27

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