Creative Woodworks & crafts 2001-08, страница 45

WES' WORKSHOP

Subjects lig\h.fc±ng a new desigrn

Sometimes we learn moare f srom ouar failuares thajca our successes,

by iVfe.v Demaresi

It looked good on paper...

One of the most effective methods of accenting a scrolled piece is the addition of a light box behind fretwork. There arc a number of patterns that incorporate lighting, and the hardware is easy enough to find. Perhaps you even built the lamp in the June 2000 issue of Creative Woodworks and Crafts and read my previous column on the electrical code that governs the rules for their proper construction.

I have been busy developing a new pattern that was inspired by our Editorial Director, Robert Becker, and designed by Dirk Boelman. The original concept was to backlight the project. employing the use of a lighi coloring medium to further enhance the design. That seemed simple enough as we discussed it, and we had a number of lighting methods in mind ^{Some of the} hardware we tried in our as the final appearance was visualized. attempt at lighting a design.

Visualizing is one thing, actually accomplishing the desired effect turned out to be quite another. The lighting concept proved to be extremely challenging and, subsequently, was dropped from the project. Now let me explain why.

Reality sets in

My first mistake was not to read the code and refresh my memory as to the nitty gritty of the standard. So I started out with a box which was 1-1/2" deep and installed a set of battery-powered Christmas tree lights behind stained glass. Good idea, but there were too many hot spots, so we tried a siring of wheat lights. These also produced hot spots—not as hot, but distracting just the same, so we tried two candelabra bulbs behind solid sections of the design. That didn't look too bad, so we left them on for a burn time test. After about 12 minutes, the stained glass cracked in an arc around the lower bulb. That was a heartbreaker as the glass is handmade and tends to be rather expensive. After that setback. 1 went to the code book and learned that incan-dcsccnt bulbs with a wattage from 0 to 25 watts must have a clearance of 2" on all sides of the bulb and 2-1/2" from the top (or bottom if mounted upside down).

Best compromise so far, a fluorescent bulb which screws into an incandescent socket.

More options

Well, the 1-1/2" box went right out the window. So we built a box 4" deep and started over again. The battery-powered bulbs did not have enough power. Besides, we didn't really like the quality of the switches anyway; they are equipped with a knife switch and it bends very easily and will not hold up.

Wc briefly considered mini pancake halogen fixtures, but soon rejecLed them because they arc extremely hot, especially in this type of enclosure. We visited several lighting stores

A few of the light modification materials we tried. Notice the break in the stained glass (at the top of the picture) caused by the heat of the candelabra bulb.

and checked for a suitable fluorescent fixture. Unfortunately, most merchants do not allow testing of the product with a return policy if things do not work out, so now we have material for a new project.

I was explaining our plight to the manager of our local True Value hardware store, and he lead us to a fluorescent bulb that screws into a standard light fixture, gives off very little heat, has good light dispersion, and is economical to use. Needless to say, haste was made back to the shop. We rewired the assembly, plugged it in and, just, like he said, it was good. It's just that it was too bright, but at least we were on the right track. It seemed all wc had to do was tone down the light.

One last attempt

Back we went to the hardware store and picked up two different sheets of acrylic light-diffusion material. I cut and installed them, but it was still not good enough. Then wc changed the bulb from a 9 watt to a 5 watt. This was even better, but still not quite right. There are several paint companies who make a frosted paint for use on glass, and sure enough the same store had Krylon's version. The photo docs not show the effect it has on the transmission of light; however, it does the job it is supposed to do. But even when coupled with the acrylic sheets, the light still was not what wc were looking for.

On top of all that, the size of the light box did not have the right visual appeal when hung on the wall, so we dropped the entire concept for this project. Now that we know what docs not work, we arc ahead for the next project. If you arc tempted to develop a light box for one of your projects, keep the above information in mind and don't forget to use the Underwriter's knot in all sockets.

Creative Woodworks & Crafts August. 2001 • 45

The project relating to this feature, "Light of the World," is shown above, and will be available for sale this summer.