Creative Woodworks & crafts 2002-09, страница 52

Attaching the molding

After the paint had dried, I applied glue to the miters and attached the molding 1o the clock with No. 18 x 1-1/4" brads. I covered the resulting holes with spackling compound and repainted the blemishes.

Clock face backer board

A backer board must be used to support both the clock face and the mechanism. I used a piece of 1/4" Luan plywood that I cut to fit very snugly inside the cose of the clock.

A 5/16" hole must be drilled in this piece of stock so it is dead cenler in the middle of the 5-3/4" hole cut into the face of the clock body. And, therein lies the problem: how do you locate the center of a hole that has already been cut? You could use a ''trial and error" approach to find the center, but there is a more accurate procedure that you might have learned back in your high school drafting class.

Insert the Luan plywood backer board inside the clock body and, with a sharp pencil, trace the opening onto the plywood.

Referring to the Clock Face Center Location Drawing, (found in Pattern Section No.l) make pencil lines "AB" ond "BC" somewhere in the upper half of the circle. They don't have to be of any special length or placed in any special position within the circle. The two lines do have to touch at point "B" and be above an imaginary horizontal center-line.

Next, set a compass so that the radius is more than half the length of line "AB" and, with the compass point on points "A" and "B," strike two sels of arcs to locate points ^:'D" and ^:'E."

Reset the compass (if necessary) for a radius greater than half the length of lino "BC" and with the compass point on points "B" and "C," strike two sets of arcs to locate points "F" and "G.'^:

Connect points "D" and "E" and points "F" and "G" with two siroighl iines to locate point "H," the center of the hole.

Before you do anything else, reset your compass to drawa 6-l/16"-Dia. circle at point "H." This will be a reference line to locate the position of the clock face when it is attached to the backer board.

Now, using a drill press and a 5/16"-Dia. brad point drill bit, drill a hole all tho way through the plywood backer board. Bo sure to have a scrap piece of stock under the plywood when you drill the hole to prevent the underside from splintering.

Attaching the clock face and mechanism

I placed a couple of small pieces of double stick tape on the bock side of the clock face and positioned it very carefully within the 6-l/6"-Dia. circle that I previously drew on the backer board. I then placed the backer board inside the clock body to check its position.

When I was satisfied with the placement, I removed the plywood from the clock and inserted the stem of the clock mechanism in the 5/16"-Dia. hole that I drilled earlier. I placed the small brass washer over the stem and tightened down the brass hex nut.

I attached the hands to the stem by placing the hour hand in the 12:00 position, then rotated the stem so that the flats lined up to position the minute hand directly over the hour hand. I placed the second hand directly over the other 1wo hands.

I secured the backer board to the clock body by placing one No. 18 x 1/2" nail in each corner of the backer board. Then, I installed the AA battery and left the clock to run for awhile to be sure that the hands were aligned properly and everything else worked as it should.

All that remained was to make and insfall the board to enclose the back of the clock. I used a piece of 1 /8" masonite. I cut the panel to 8-1/4" x 10" and secured it with a No. 2 x 3/8" roundhead brass screw in each corner. This allows me to gain access to the mechanism when the battery needs to be replaced. ^

52 • Creative Woodworks & Crafts September 2002 mmmmmmmmammmm^immm^m^mmwmm^^^^^mm

Fig. 2. Make a layout for the rabbets on the end of one of the vertical members.

Fig. 5. Be sure that the scrap piece is to the left of the saw blade so it won't be kicked back at you.

Fig. 4. Assemble the box with brads and a little glue.