Creative Woodworks & crafts 2004-09, страница 40

Introduction

All of my projects hove a story to tell, and this one is no exception. This, however, is actually a story about two boxes...

In March of 2004, Robert Becker, editor of this fine magazine, called to ask if I would design a special project for him. He was going to be meeting with a sales representative from the Minwax Company in a few weeks, and wanted to take along a project that would showcase the com-pany's water-based stains. Robert enthusiastically explained to me that Minwax has this amazing line of water-based wood stains that can be mixed in almost every color imaginable... that the colors are all gorgeous, with names like cherry blossom and green tea and mandarin orange and lemongrass... that he had heard from several people who use these stains that they really love working with them... that we've got to let other people know about how wonderful these products are... and on and on and on. Robert always has lots to say when he's excited about something!

Anyway, Robert's enthusiasm got my creative juices flowing, and lo' and behold, I came up with the idea for "The Dragon's Cache." Since we wanted to utilize stains on this project, I chose to make the first prototype from plain old number two pine (picked right from the shelves at our local Menard's store). Pine is soft and easy to work with, and actually looked quite nice in its natural color. But then it really turned into something special as we applied the Minwax products.

After thorough sanding, we removed all of the sawdust with an air hose and a good wiping with a tack cloth. Next we applied a coat of Minwax Water-Based Pre-stain (a wood conditioner that assures color uniformity of the stains). When dry, we sanded it smooth with fine sandpaper, and removed the dust with our handy tack cloth. Next we applied one coat of Colonial Pine wood stain to the box and drawers, and one coat of American Walnut to the knobs (both of these are water-based stains in ready-to-use colors). After a couple of hours, we added a second coat of the stains to darken the colors a little more. Then, we topped it off with three coats of Water-Based Polycrylic, sanding between coats, and a final rubdown at the end with a brown paper bag.

The finished box is definitely gorgeous! Robert took it to his meeting, and the Minwax Company reps were impressed. Everyone at the magazine loved it, and everyone was happy! BUT... the story doesn't end here...

We all got to thinking about the box, including the Minwax rep, and all had the same thought at about the same time: "This is really a beautiful project, but can you imagine what it would look like if it were made out of some real nice hardwood?"

And so we decided to make a second version of the box, which really turned out gorgeous, even if I do say so myself! Here's its story...

About a year ago my good friend and neighbor, Jack Tiedemann, gave me several rough-sawn walnut boards. The boards were sawn from logs that Jack had harvested from a grove of Black Walnut trees on the bluffs along the Wisconsin River near Millville, a very small town in Southwest Wisconsin. Jack told me that he had the boards "bucked-up" by a local sawyer, which was why they weren't very even. Then, he stacked them up "with lath between them," back in the 70's, so they were good and dry!

I picked out four of the boards, and spent an afternoon planing them down and working them up into sizes I could

use for this project. It was some of the prettiest walnut I had ever worked V/ith. I made the entire box from the walnut, including the 1/8" material for the drqwer bottoms, and then used some red oak for the knobs, just for contrast.

After assembly, we applied a couple coats of A/linwax Pre-Stain wood conditioner. This product really brings out the colors and grain of the wood. If has a thin "water-like" consistency, which makes it great to get inside the small cutout openings. Then, we applied three coats of Fast Drying Poiyurethane, sanding between coats. When it was dry, we rubbed all of the surfaces with a brown paper bag. The end result was quite amazing, beautiful to look at, and a pleasure to touch!

Here's how you can make yours...

INSTRUCTIONS

Measure and cut parts

After selecting the material of your choice, pre-cut all parts to the approximate size, leaving a little extra length and width, whenever practical, to trim and fit as you start assembly.

Full-size patterns are provided for most parts. Refer to the photographs of the finished projects, the exploded view diagram, the patterns, and the various illustrations to help you with making and assembling the parts. Make copies of the patterns to work with, and save the originals for future use. Temporarily adhere the patterns to the wood with spray adhesive, and use the patterns as your guide for cutting the parts on your scroll saw.

Start by making each of the individual parts; begin with the front and back panels (A and B), and continue working through the alphabetized list. Brief instructions for making each part are provided below, and additional information is shown with each pattern.

A and B. FRONT AND BACK PANELS: Use the full-size patterns to make these parts. Cut out the dragons and openings for the drawers through the front panel only. Leave the back pane! solid.

C. END PANELS: Cut two panels to size and bevel the top and bottom edges 20°. Then adhere the patterns to the wood pieces (lining up along the bottom edge) and use your scroll saw to cut the notched designs along the bottom edge in order to form the legs for the box.

D. BOTTOM PANEL: Precut the panel to size. The width should be exactly the same as the end panels, as all three parts mount between the front and back panels. Bevel both ends 20°, leaving a little extra length that can be trimmed to fit during assembly.

E. TOP PANEL: Precut the panel to size. Again, the width should be exactly the same as the bottom panel (D), and end panels (C). Bevel both ends 20°, leaving a little extra length for trimming, as needed, during assembly.

F. G and H. LID SECTIONS: Refer to the measured drawings in the pattern section to make three lid sections. The sides and ends of each section are beveled 20°. Note: do not cut out the opening/cavity within the middle and lower lid sections until later.

I. LID GUIDES: Make two lid guides. Refer to the measured drawing in the patterns section and bore two 9/64" holes for the mounting screws.

1(1 • Creative Woodworks & Crafts September 3004