Popular Woodworking 2000-02 № 113, страница 52
are set back V4" from the front of the legs, this is called a "set back." Now cut a bead on the bottom edge of the aprons using a beading bit in your router. Finally, cut a slot on the inside of the aprons for fastening the base to the top. I use metal tabletop fasteners from Rockler (see the supplies list at the end of the article). Rockler sells very sturdy ones, and I recommend them. For these fasteners, the slot needs to be the width of your table saw's blade (between /8" or wide) and 7/l6" down from the top of the apron and 3/8" deep. Glue up your base, peg the mortises through the legs and finish the base. I use square pegs in my legs. Drill a round hole through the leg and into the mortise. Then take a piece of square stock, whittle one end of it roundish, then pound it into the hole. It should convert your round hole into a square. Mitered Mortise and Tenon This method is similar to the straight mortise and tenon above, but you must miter the ends of the tenons because your mortises meet in the middle of the leg. Why would they meet? Well you might have a thinner leg, or your mortises might be back farther if you chose to use a larger set back. When this is the case, I make a standard tenon and chop the end off at a 45-degree angle on my miter saw. You're not trying to match the two miters exactly (it Use the bracket as a template for locating the holes for the corner bracket.Then use a drill press to make your pilot holes. 10 Popular Woodworking February 2000 |
