Popular Woodworking 2001-06 № 122, страница 32
Show off your pottery, books and good taste by building an authentic reproduction of a turn-of-the-century classic. Limbert In 1996 I stopped purchasing Arts & Crafts furniture, and this bookcase is the reason why. After collecting Arts and Crafts furniture since 1990, I had amassed a small but nice collection on my salary as a newspaper reporter. However the piece I wanted but never could find is a glass front bookcase. So I patiently saved my money and went to an auction in Chicago, ready to buy this very bookcase, which had been featured prominently in the auction's catalog. I was outbid. Well, completely blown out of the water is more like it. I went home that day with two smaller pieces that, while nice, were not exactly what I wanted. So like any scorned woodworker, I plotted and planned. I sought out dimensions from auction catalogs and reprints of historical materials. And when I was ready, I built the bookcase I'd always wanted. Limbert pieces were almost always made from quartersawn oak or ash, but I decided that cherry with a deep mahogany finish was what I wanted. Everything about this piece is as authentic as I could get, from the knob to the shiplapped bead-board back. My only compromises were some non-mortise hinges (I'm convinced Limbert would have used these if Amerock had been making them in 1904), and a thin bead of silicone to help hold the glass in place. Construction is simple — well within the reach of most beginning and intermediate woodworkers. The top, bottom and gallery back rest in dadoes in the sides. The beadboard back is screwed into rabbets on the case members. And the doors are simple mortise-and-tenon construction. In fact, the only tricky part is the mullions on the doors. But if you take some care when building them, you should have no problem at all. You need about 50 board feet of 4/4 cherry (that's 1" thick) to build Limbert's #340 bookcase, and not a scrap of plywood. Begin by surfacing all your material and gluing up the panels you'll need for the sides, top, bottom or shelves. Start with the Sides Begin working on the case by cutting the 3/s" x 5/s"-deep rabbets on the back edges of the top, bottom and side pieces for the back. The rabbeting bit I own for my router table wasn't large enough to make this cut easily, so I made the rabbet in two passes on the table saw. While you're at the saw, cut the 5/s" x 3/8"-long tongues on the ends of the gallery back. These tongues allow the gallery back to lock into the rabbet on the side pieces. by Christopher Schwarz |
