Popular Woodworking 2003-06 № 134, страница 75

Popular Woodworking 2003-06 № 134, страница 75

After the tenons and mortises are cut on all your parts, rough out the grooves for the panels using a dado stack in your table saw.

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But this project isn't a built-in, so it needs a hand to keep its shape. The frame-and-panel back made from 3/4"-thick maple and 1/2"-thick plywood helps quite a bit. But even with the back screwed in place you can rack the front of the case by lifting one of the feet. So that's where the cubbyholes and file box help. They're separate cabinets that you screw to the sides, top and bottom. I had considered building their functions into the cabinet by

NO. ITEM

DIMENSIONS (INCHES)

MATERIAL COMMENTS

NO. ITEM

DIMENSIONS (INCHES)

MATERIAL COMMENTS

Main case

□ 3 Top, bottom, middle

T

3/4

W

22V 2

L

35

Plywood

in V4" x 3V dados

4 Side panel stiles

3/4

33/8

57

Maple

4 Side panel small rails

3/4

3

Maple

V TBE

2 Side panel, lower rails

3/4

5

^

Maple

V" TBE

2 Side panels, top

V2

167/8

223/4

Plywood

in V2" x3/V6"-deep groove

2 Side panels, bottom

V2

167/8

24

Plywood

in V2" x3/V6"-deep groove

2 Back panel stiles

3/4

3

57

Maple

in V2" x 3V rabbet in side assembly

3 Back panel rails

3/4

3

3V/2

Maple

V TBE

1 Back panel, top

V2

297 8

223/4

Plywood

in V2" x3/V6"-deep groove

1 Back panel, bottom

V2

297 8

26

Plywood

in V2" x3/V6"-deep groove

1 Top cap

1

253/4

39V2

Ply/maple

plywood edged with maple

Doors

2 Outside stiles

3/4

4

57

Maple

2 Interior stiles

3/4

2V2

57

Maple

4 Small rails

3/4

3

V 3V2

Maple

V TBE

2 Large rails

3/4

5

V 3V2

Maple

V TBE

2 Top panels

9/64

12

227/8

Plastic

in 7/v6" deep x V4" rabbet

2 Bottom panels

9/64

12

24v8

Plastic

in 7/v6" deep x V4" rabbet

Cubbyholes

□ 2 Top, bottom

3/4

UV4

34V2

Plywood

V4" x V2" rabbet on inside long edge

4 Vertical dividers

3/4

4

V2

Plywood

biscuited to top, bottom

Back

V4

5

34V2

Plywood

screwed to case

File unit

□ 2 Top, bottom

3 4

^

34V2

Plywood

V4" x V2" rabbet on inside long edge

4 Sides, vertical dividers

3 4

^2

Plywood

biscuited to top, bottom

2 Adjustable shelves

3 4

S7/8

V83/4

Plywood

screwed to case

1 Case back

V4

UV2

34V2

Plywood

1 File drawer false front

V2

V3

Plywood

1 Top drawer false front

V2

^

5

Plywood

2 Top drawer sides

3/8

3V2

V8

Plywood

3/v6" x 3/8" rabbet on ends

1 Top drawer front

3/B

3V2

^

Plywood

1 Top drawer back

3/8

3

Plywood

1 Top drawer bottom

V4

UVs

1713/16

Plywood

in VV'-wide x 3/V6"-deep groove

2 File drawer sides

3/8

93/4

V8

Plywood

3/v6" x 3/8" rabbet on ends

1 File drawer front

3 8

93/4

^/a

Plywood

1 File drawer back

3 8

9V4

Plywood

□ 1 File drawer bottom TBE=tenon both ends

V4

^Vs

1713/16

Plywood

in VV'-wide x 3/V6"-deep groove

adding shelves and dividers, but that wouldn't have added the rigidity I needed.

Once you screw these two assemblies in place, the whole thing really tightens up nicely.

Building Using

Frame-and-panel Assemblies

The sides and back are built in an identical manner: The stiles and rails are joined using 3/s"-thick x 2"-wide x 1"-long tenons (the thicker bottom rails get two tenons). The flat plywood panels are glued into /"V'-deep grooves cut into the rails and stiles. You can glue these panels in place because the plywood won't shrink and swell with the seasons.

In hindsight, the mortise-and-tenon joints on these three frames were probably overkill. Because these plywood panels can be glued in place, biscuits would have been a fine way to join the rails and stiles. But I'm a sucker for the traditional tenon.

The groove for the panels is a bit different than what you're accustomed to. When gluing plywood panels in place, I like to give the excess glue someplace to go (rather than letting it squeeze out). So I cut my grooves in two stages. First cut the groove to approximate size using a dado stack set to 3/16" high in your table saw.

Then install a 10" rip blade in the saw and set the blade height to 1/4". With this setup, cut the groove perfectly to size in the center by running the rails and stiles with one face against the fence, then flipping the piece around and cutting the other way. This extra step guarantees the groove will be centered on your edge, and it's easier to guide your material over the rip blade because you're not removing much material. And finally, it cuts two shallow grooves at the bottom of your groove so excess glue has a place

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